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HONOLULU  

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i 


List  of  Illustrations 


Facing  Page 

lolani    (Kamehameha  II.)    4 

Nahienaena  (sister  of  Kamehameha  III.)  12 

Kauikeaouli    (Kamehameha   III.)    14 

Honolulu   (from  Harbor,  looking  towards  Fort)    16 

Kalanimoku    ("Billy    Pitt") 22 

Tatooed  Chief,  playing  at  game  28 

John  Young,  companion  of  Kamehameha  1 36 

Captain  A.  Adams,  Designer  of  Hawaiian  Flag  38 

Chief  Boki  and  his  wife,  Liliha  42 

Ruins  of  John  Young's  Home,  Kawaihae  48 

Nuku'iwi    66 

Honolulu  Harbor,  looking  towards  Barber's  Point  68 

Old  Style  Hawaiian  Fan Facing  page  1 

Lei   Palaoa   4 

Boki's  Autograph  (from  an  original) 22 

Francisco  de  Paula  Marin's  Autograph  (from  an  original)  68 

Lehua  Blossoms   ..  75 


494408 


Foreword 


KING  LIHOLIHO  IOLANI  (Kamehameha  II.)  and  his 
queen,  Kamamalu,  died  in  London  while  on  a  visit  to  see 
their  "great  and  good'  friend"  George  IV.  In  order  to  show  its 
respect  for  the  royal  pair  who  had  travelled  so  far  and  who  had 
come  to  such  an  untimely  end,  the  British  government  sent  their 
remains  back  to  Honolulu  in  the  Blonde  frigate,  commanded  by 
George  Anson,  seventh  Lord  Byron,  who  happened  to  be  first 
cousin  to  the  poet  and  successor  to  his  title,  and  who  was  also  a 
grandson  of  Admiral  Byron  of  the  Dolphin,  one  of  the  British 
explorers  in  the  Pacific  previous  to  Captain  Cook. 

The  Horticultural  Society  of  London  (now  the  Koyal  Horti- 
cultural Society),  hearing  of  the  intended  departure  of  the  Blonde 
for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  wishing  to  help  the  natives  of 
that  group,  obtained  permission  to  send  on  the  Blonde  a  fine  col- 
lection of  plants,  considered  suitable  for  the  climate  of  ''Owhyee" 
under  the  charge  of  James  Macrae,  a  young  Scotsman,  trained  as 
SL  plant  collector  and  horticulturist.  The  plants  were  to  be  dis- 
tributed as  a  gift  among  the  chiefs  of  the  islands.  By  the  same 
opportunity,  John  Wilkinson,  a  skilled  agriculturist,  was  in- 
duced, evidently  through  promises  held  out  to  him  by  Boki,  one 
of  the  chiefs  who  had  come  to  London  in  the  train  of  the  de- 
ceased King  Liholiho,  to  come  out  to  Honolulu  with  the  intention 
of  starting  some  kind  of  tropical  farm  on  land  to  be  given  him  by 
Boki. 

Hitherto,  the  only  published  account  of  the  voyage  of  the 
Blonde  is  the  work  compiled  by  Mrs.  Maria  Graham,  and  issued 
in  London  in  1826.  This  work  is  supposed  to  have  been  based 
on  materials  supplied  by  the  diary  kept  by  Mr.  Bloxom,  the 
chaplain  to  the  Blonde,  supplemented  by  details  taken  from  the 
diary  or  journal  of  one  of  the  midshipmen  on  board  the  same 
vessel.  The  writer  of  "An  Examination  of  Charges  against  the 
American  Missionaries  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  as  alleged  in  the 
Voyage  of  the  ship  Blonde  and  in  the  London  Quarterly  Keview," 
published  at  Cambridge  (U.S.A.)  1827,  has  a  very  poor  opinion 
of  this  account  of  the  voyage  as  set  forth  by  Mrs.  Graham,  and 
terms  it  "nearly  worthless." 

During  the  course  of  the  voyage  of  the  Blonde  to  and  from 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  which  included  visits  to  various  ports  en 
route,  James  Macrae,  when  he  had  the  chance,  was  a  diligent 
collector  of  plants  and  objects  of  natural  history.  On  returning 
to  England  in  1826,  his  herbarium  and  diary  were  handed  over 


to  his  patron  the  Horticultural  Society.  The  herbarium  was 
probably  delivered  to  Kew  or  the  British  Museum  in  order  that 
the  various  plants  collected  by  Macrae  might  be  scientifically  cata- 
logued and  described.  His  manuscript  diary,  however,  has  re- 
posed, until  this  date,  on  the  shelves  of  the  library  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society.  The  present  writer  thought  it  would  be 
worth  while  to  have  that  portion  of  Macrae's  journal  which  refers 
to  the  Sandwich  or  Hawaiian  group  made  known  to  the  public. 
He  has  therefore  obtained  the  consent  of  the  Council  of  the  Royal 
Horticultural  Society  to  its  being  published. 

To  those  who  are  interested  in  the  early  history  of  the  Sand- 
wich, or  as  they  are  now  termed,  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  it  is  be- 
lieved that  in  Macrae's  Journal  will  be  found  some  curious  glimp- 
ses of  men  and  manners  as  they  existed  in  the  islands  at  the  close 
of  the  first  quarter  of  the  nineteenth  century.  The  Hawaiian 
chiefs  and  people  were  then  beginning  to  come  in  contact  with 
the  haole  or  white  man,  but  were  still  masters  in  their  own  land. 
The  people  grew  their  own  taro  and  caught  their  own  fish,  and 
did  not  rely  on  Asiatics  to  do  it  for  them.  They  were  still  living 
in  grass  houses  built  by  themselves  and  they  were  clad  in  the 
native  tapa  or  kapa  cloth. 

Like  his  fellow  countrymen,  Doctor  Archibald  Menzies  and 
David  Douglas,  who  had  visited  and  explored  the  Hawaiian  Isl- 
ands, James  Macrae  was  a  botanist  and  mountain  climber,  and 
the  account  of  his  visits  to  Mauna  Kea  and  Kilauea  Volcano 
and  his  rambles  on  the  island  of  Oahu  are  worth  preserving. 

After  his  return  to  England,  Macrae  was  appointed  by  the 
British  Colonial  office  to  the  post  of  superintendent  of  what  was 
then  called  the  Colonial  Gardens  at  Ceylon.  Whether  or  not 
these  gardens  were  at  Colombo  or  at  what  is  now  called  the  Royal 
Botanic  Gardens  at  Peradenyia,  near  Kandy,  the  present  writer 
has,,  so  far,  been  unable  to  find  out.  Neither  has  he  been  able 
to  ascertain  anything  further  about  the  career  of  Macrae.  As 
Macrae  was  a  collector  and  outdoor  man,  botanical  writers  have 
little  to  say  about  Macrae.  Had  he  been  a  "systematist,"  a  party 
such  as  Linnaeus  or  de  Cand'olle,  who  sat  at  home  at  ease  and 
catalogued  the  plants  that  had  been  gathered  by  hardy  explorers 
like  Macrae,  then  no  doubt  we  would  have  known  more  about  the 
facts  of  his  life. 

In  the  botanical  world  Macrae  is  remembered  by  Macraea, 
a  tribe  of  Chilian  plants  belonging  to  the  order  of  Geraniaceae, 


and  in  the  Hawaiian  flora,  several  plants  have  Macrae  for  their 
trivial  names.       Some  of  these  may  be  mentioned  here,  viz. : 

Native  Name. 

Asplenium  Macraei         Hook.  &  Grev.  Pamoho 
Coreopsis  Macraei          Gray 

Cyathodes  Macraei         D.  C.  Maieli  or  Puakeawe 
Cyrtandra  Macraei         Gray 

Davallia  Macraeana       Hook.  &  Arn.  Laukahi 
Depavia  Macraei             Hook.  &  Grev. 

Peperomia  Macraeana  D.  C.  Alaala  wainui 

Phyllostegia  Macraei     Bentham  Kapana 

Rubus  Macraei  Gray  Akala 

VacciniumMacraenum  Klotzsch  Ohelo 

In  the  Index  Kewensis  Plantarum,  other  plants  named  after 
Macrae  may  be  found. 

Mrs.  Maria  Graham,  the  compiler  of  "The  Voyage  of  the 
Blonde,"  does  not  mention  Macrae  by  name,  but  the  following 
sentences  in  her  work  refer  to  him.  "It  is  to  be  regretted  that 
the  practised  collector  of  botanical  specimens  who  went  in  the 
Blonde  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  should  not  have  furnished  any 
account  of  the  plants,  useful  and  curious,  which  he  collected  for 
the  Horticultural  Society,  or  that  some  of  the  very  enlightened 
members  of  that  society  should  not  have  done  so.  The  field  is  in 
some  respects  new ;  and  it  is  acknowledged  by  all  the  foreign  navi- 
gators that  the  collection  made  during  the  Blonde's  voyage  is  one 
of  the  most  curious  in  Europe." 

The  undersigned  has  added  a  condensed  Log  of  the  Blonde 
before  reaching  and  after  leaving  the  Sandwich  Islands.  He  has 
also  appended  explanatory  notes  to  Macrae's  Diary,  and  furnished 
several  illustrations  taken  from  engravings,  photographs  and  auto- 
graphs in  his  private  collection. 

WM.  F.  WILSOK 

Honolulu,  September  30,  1922. 


NOTES  ON  VOYAGE  H.M.S.  BLONDE  FROM  WOOLWICH, 
LONDON,  TO  HILO,  HAWAII 


1824 

Sept.  8 — H.M.S.  Blonde  of  46  guns,  commanded  by  Captain 
Lord  Byron,  then  lying  at  Woolwich,  received  on 
board  the  bodies  of  the  late  King  and  Queen  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands. 

28 — The  suite  of  Sandwich  Islanders  got  on  board  at  Spit- 
head,  and  the  ship  sailed  the  same  day. 

Oct.     18 — Keached  Madeira  and  stayed  there  until  23rd  Oct. 
Nov.  27 — Reached  Rio  de  Janeiro  and  left  on  Dec.  18  for  St. 
Catherines  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  provisions  and 
water. 
Dec.     24 — Reached  St.   Catherines   and  sailed  again  on  Jan.   1, 

1825 
JFeby.      4 — Anchored  in  Valparaiso  Bay  . 

8 — Kapihe,  "Admiral  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,"  and  one 
of  the  late  King's  suite,  died  today  from  an  attack  of 
apoplexy.     He  was  a  skilled  player  at  the  Hawaiian 
game  of  draughts,  called  ''konane." 
Mar.    16— Reached  Callao. 

25 — Arrived   at   Galapagos   Islands,  and  stayed  there  until 

April  2. 
April     3 — Boki,  who  had  already  been  baptized  at  the  islands, 

partook  of  the  Lord's  Supper. 

May      1 — Liliha  and  the  other  Sandwich    Islanders    on    board 
were  baptized  by  the  chaplain  of  the  Blonde.       Lord 
Byron  was  their  sponsor. 
3— Land  sighted  off  the  coast  of  Hilo,  Island  of  Hawaii. 


IOLANI 
(King  Kamehameha  II.) 


From  a  life  sketch  made  in  London 


James  Macrae  s  Diary 

H.M.S.  "BLONDE"  ARRIVES  AT  HILO,  HAWAII 

May  3,  1825.  Made  the  S.E.  point  of  Owhyee,  and  at  12 
got  close  in  with  the  land,  which  afforded  us  a  pleasant  contrast 
to  the  Galapagos  Islands  lately  left.  Here  green  slopes  were  seen 
beautifully  interspersed  with  trees,  and  in  many  places  along  the 
coast,  rows  of  coco-nuts  with  leaning  bushy  tops.  The  country 
in  this  part  rose  inland  with  a  gentle  ascent,  and  did  not  appear 
to  us  much  intersected  by  deep  ravines. 

By  2  o'clock  p.m.  we  hove  too  off  Heddo  Bay,  and  lowered 
two  of  the  ship's  boats,  one  for  the  surveyor  and  his  assistant, 
and  the  other  for  the  master  to  go  in  shore  to  try  soundings  in 
order  to  ascertain  whether  we  could  return  here  to  refit  the  vessel 
after  depositing  the  bodies  of  the  King  and  Queen  of  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  at  the  seat  of  government  at  Woahoo.  While  the 
boats  were  away  two  ragged  white  men  came  on  board  and  report- 
ed that  the  ship  was  standing  on  not  far  from  a  reef  which  lay 
most  way  across  the  mouth  of  the  bay.  All  was  instantly  bustle 
and  noise  to  put  the  ship  about  and  stand  out  to  sea  farther  from 
the  land. 

We  learned  from  these  men  that  news  had  been  brought  them 
a  month  ago,  by  an  English  whaler  from  the  port  of  London,  of 
the  King  and  Queen's1  death.  We  were  also  informed  that  the 

iLiholiho  and  Kamamalu.  The  name  Liholiho  or  Rihoriho  is  a 
contraction  of  Kalaninuiliholiho  (the  great  black  (?)  heaven).  On 
state  occasions,  Liholiho  was  induced  to  take  the  title  of  Kamehameha 
II.,  but  his  favorite  name  was  lolani  (the  great  lo  or  god  of  heaven). 
lo  was  the  supreme  deity  of  Polynesia,  and  "his  name  was  held  to 
be  so  sacred  that  none  but  the  priest  might  utter  it  at  certain  times 
and  places"  (Tregear).  lo  was  recognized  in  New  Zealand  and  at 
Tahiti  and  other  islands  in  the  South  Seas.  In  Hindustan,  the  home 
of  the  Polynesian  race,  lo  is  known  as  Deo,  Dyu  or  Dyo.  In  the  cere- 
mony of  fire-walking  or  "uinuti"  as  practised  at  Raiatea  Island,  the 
priest,  before  leading  his  followers  across  the  fiery  pit,  invoked  the 
aid  of  the  supreme  god  lo.  Although  the  word  lo  appears  in  Andrews' 
Hawaiian  dictionary  under  eleven  different  headings,  none  of  these 
mention  that  one  meaning  for  the  word  is  that  of  the  great  deity  of 
Polynesia.  Liholiho  having  been  initiated  into  the  inner  mysteries  of 
the  Hawaiian  temple,  must  have  understood  the  signification  of  the 
word,  and  hence  his  fondness  for  it  as  one  of  his  own  names.  The 
inscription  in  poor  Hawaiian,  on  the  outer  coffin  made  in  England  for 
the  body  of  Liholiho,  winds  up  as  follows:  "Aloka  ino  no  komakoa 
Elii  Jiolani,"  i.e.,  "Aloha  ino  no  ko  makou  Alii  lolani,"  or  in  English, 
"Deep  love  to  our  chief  lolani." 

Kamamalu  is  a  contraction  of  Kamehamehamalu   (the    shade    of 


natives  of  the  island  of  Atooi  to  leeward,  had  rebelled  two  months 
ago  against  the  Regent  in  consequence  of  the  chief  of  that  island 
having  died  since  the  king  went  to  England,  and  that  owing  to 
the  arrival  from  America  some  months  past  of  the  son  and  heir  to 
the  deceased  chief,  who  claimed  the  rights  of  his  father.  Before 
he  was  defeated  by  the  superior  force  of  the  Regent,  who  com- 
manded in  person,  the  rebellion  occasioned  the  loss  of  upwards  of 
two  thousand  natives,  besides  two  Europeans.  Yet  we  were  as- 
sured that  this  same  chief,  after  being  captured,  is  at  present  suf- 
fered to  go  at  large  in  the  town  of  Hanarura  at  Woahoc. 

We  had  not  been  long  off  the  bay  of  Heddo  when  several  of 
the  natives  visited  us  from  the  shore,  paddling  off  in  their  canoes, 
and  bringing  with  them  sugar  canes,  taro  (arum  spec.),  fish  and 
hogs.  The  sugar  canes  were  generally  of  the  purple  and  striped 
kind  and  of  a  large  size.  The  dress  of  the  men  consisted  of  the 
maro,  a  piece  of  various  dyed  cloth  of  their  own  manufacture, 
eight  or  ten  inches  broad,  and  about  three  yards  long,  which  they 
pass  between  the  legs  and  tie  around  the  waist.  The  dress  of  the 
women  consisted  generally  of  a  larger  piece  of  cloth  of  similar 
manufacture,  tied  carelessly  around  the  waist,  forming  a  short 
petticoat  reaching  halfway  down  the  thigh.  This  was  the  com- 
mon dress  of  all  who  came  off  to  the  ship,  excepting  that  of  the 
head  chief,  who  is  commonly  honored  with  the  title  of  governor, 
and  that  of  one  of  his  wives.  Both  were  of  more  than  ordinary 
size  from  overgrown  corpulency.  The  governor's  dress  consisted 
of  a  dirty  cotton  shirt,  a  pair  of  blue  China  nankeen  trousers  and 
an  old  straw  hat.  That  of  his  wife,  the  common  petticoat  used 
by  the  other  females,  with  the  addition  of  a  piece  of  native  made 
cloth  tied  round  her  neck,  hanging  loosely  over  her  body  and  open 
in  front  like  a  cloak.  Both  these,  on  coming  on  board,  touched 
noses,  after  the  manner  of  salutation  of  their  country,  with  most 
of  the  Sandwich  Islanders  we  had  brought  out  from  England,  and 
immediately  after  went  with  them  below  to  their  cabins,  where 
they  all  soon  commenced  a  disagreeable  howling  noise  in  lamenta- 
tion of  their  late  king  and  queen. 

All  the  canoes  of  the  natives  that  came  alongside  the  ship 
had  outriggers,  the  same  as  described  by  Capt.  Cook  and  others. 
That  in  which  the  governor  came  on  board  was  upwards  of  40 
feet  long  and  very  neatly  made. 

Kamehameha),  contracted  to  Kamehamalu  and  afterwards  to  Kama- 
malu.  On  the  brass  plate  fixed  to  the  coffin  made  for  her  in  England, 
she  is  termed  "Tamehamalu  Eli,"  i.e.,  "Kamehamalu  Alii." 


At  five  o'clock  the  boats  returned,  bringing  information  that 
the  anchorage  was  good  and  the  entrance  to  it  sufficiently  large  for 
ships  of  the  line. 

SAILS  FOE  MAUI 

We  now  made  sail  for  the  island  of  Mowee,  where,  his  Lord- 
ship was  informed,  Queen  Kanamanah2  at  present  resided,  to  take 
her  on  board  with  any  other  people  of  consequence  on  that  island 
who  might  wish  to  be  present  at  the  funeral,  like  the  governor  and 
his  wife,  who,  with  several  others,  had  already  come  on  board  at 
Heddo.  The  neighborhood  of  Heddo  Bay  to  the  east,  is  thickly 
covered  with  wood  from  the  seacoast  everywhere  back  in  the  in- 
terior as  far  as  we  could  see.  The  country  is  free  from  fog,  and 
to  the  west  much  intersected  with  deep  ravines  ending  by  the  sea 
in  abrupt  cliffs,  down  which  fall  several  beautiful  cascades  of 
water. 

The  native  huts  appeared  most  numerous  round  the  edge  of 
the  bay,  being  pleasantly  situated  under  thick  groves  of  coco-nut 
and  bread  fruit  trees.  Among  the  numerous  trees  that  ornament 
this  delightful  spot,  are  numbers  of  the  candlenut  (aleurites)  so 
easily  distinguished  at  a  long  distance  by  their  white  shining 
leaves.  These  grow  everywhere  on  the  coast. 

May  4.  Saw  the  summit  of  Mouna  Kaah3  towering  far  above 
the  clouds,  and  in  places  covered  with  snow.  We  also  saw  Mauna 
Eoa  appearing  not  far  off  from  the  other,  but  without  snow.  The 
grand  appearance  of  both  these  mountains  as  seen  from  on  board 
the  ship,  upwards  of  100  miles  out  at  sea,  would  repay  the  travel- 
ler for  coming  so  far  on  purpose  to  see  them. 

We  had  scarcely  done  looking  at  the  mountains  of  Owhyee, 
when  the  highland  of  Mowee  appeared  in  a  similar  way  ahead,  but 
nowhere  covered  with  snow. 

WEST  MAUI 

In  the  course  of  the  next  hour  or  two,  we  were  running  along 
the  shore  under  the  high  land,  and  we  noticed  that  this  side  of 
the  island  was  intersected  with  numerous  deep  ravines,  down 
which  fell  several  waterfalls,  at  no  great  distance  from  each 
other.  These  were  admired  by  all  on  board,  most  of  whom  anx- 
iously desired  to  be  on  shore  that  they  might  satisfy  their  thirst 

2Kaahumanu. 
sMauna  Kea  . 


8 

from  such  beautiful  water.  Tor  the  last  month  we  had  been  on 
short  allowance  of  this  article,  which  was  often  served  out  not 
drinkable.  The  land  on  this  side  of  Mowee  rose  to  the  peaks  of 
the  mountains  much  more  steeply  than  anywhere  noticed  at 
Owyhee.  Like  that  island  it  was  well  wooded,  and  along  the  coast 
covered  with  verdure,  yet  little  cultivated,  although  the  native 
huts  appeared  everywhere  more  numerous  and  at  no  great  distance 
from  each  other,  generally  upon  the  ridges  near  the  coast  for  the 
convenience  of  fishing. 

LAHAISTA 

Wnen  we  got  near  enough  to  the  shore  we  lowered  a  boat 
and  landed  all  the  Sandwich  Island  people  brought  from  England. 
These  were  dressed  in  new  mourning  suits,  which  formed  a  rare 
contrast  beside  their  naked  countrymen.  When  they  landed  on 
the  beach,  they  were  received  by  some  thousands  of  natives  making 
a  very  disagreeable  loud  howling  noise,  ceasing  at  intervals  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  commencing  again  as  before,  which  they  kept 
up  in  this  manner  most  of  the  night.  About  seven,  came  to 
anchor  in  eleven  fathoms  on  a  coral  bottom,  not  far  from  a  reef 
with  a  high  surf  on  it.  During  the  night  a  native  schooner  was 
sent  to  Woahoo  to  inform  Mr.  Pitt4  and  Mr.  Charlton5  of  our 
arrival. 

May  5.  A  fine  morning.  Lowered  the  ship's  boats  for  the 
purpose  of  getting  a  fresh  supply  of  water.  Got  permission  to 
go  ashore,  but  promised  not  to  go  out  of  sight  of  the  ship,  it  be- 
ing uncertain  when  we  might  get  under  weigh.  On  going  ashore 
I  met  three  poor  ragged  white  men  at  the  watering  place,  who 
offered  their  services  to  accompany  me  through  the  native  huts 
and  plantations.  To  a  stranger  it  was  difficult  to  find  the  nearest 
way,  from  the  numerous  taro  ponds  almost  everywhere  among  the 
huts.  The  taro,  I  noticed,  was  cultivated  to  a  greater  extent 
than  any  other  esculent.  The  ponds  of  water  in  which  they  cul- 
tivated it,  are  commonly  square  and  of  different  sizes,  about  four 
feet  deep  from  the  level  surface,  and  the  bottom  covered  with 

'William  or  Billy  Pitt,  the  nickname  given  by  foreigners  to  Ka- 
lanimoku  or  Kalaimoku,  governor  of  the  island  of  Oahu. 

sRichard  Charlton,  first  British  consul  to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  His 
jurisdiction  as  consul  extended  to  the  Society  and  Friendly  Islands. 
Died  at  Falmouth,  England,  on  25th  December,  1852. 


water  to  a  depth  of  from  2  to  2%  feet.  The  water  is  constantly 
supplied  from  a  neighboring  stream  by  means  of  a  small  canal 
emptying  itself  from  one  pond  to  another,  until  at  last  it  reaches 
the  seashore.  These  ponds  are  used  for  keeping  fish  and  ducks 
as  well  as  for  growing  taro.  In  general  they  are  kept  free  from 
weeds  and  rushes,  and  are  planted  with  surprising  regularity, 
not  far  behind  what  one  would  expect  from  a  more  civilized  race 
of  people.  The  singular  method  which  they  have  adopted  of 
growing  this  farinaceous  esculent  always  in  water  has  originated 
beyond  doubt  at  an  early  period  with  themselves.  Perhaps  it  was 
from  their  extreme  fondness  for  that  element  which  they  so  often 
frequent  during  the  day,  in  a  manner  similar  to  the  feathered 
aquatic  tribe.  When  they  have  occasion  to  weed  these  ponds, 
they  are  generally  up  in  mud  and  water  above  the  knees,  which 
to  any  other  race  not  so  much  accustomed  to  water,  would  be 
found  inconvenient.  They,  as  far  as  I  could  learn,  have  no  par- 
ticular season  for  planting  or  for  taking  up  the  taro,  but  go  on 
using  the  largest  roots  as  they  occasionally  want  them  for  food 
from  the  ponds  that  are  most  forward  till  they  become  nearly  done. 
Then  they  turn  the  water  off  and  drain  the  pond  dry,  placing 
whatever  fish  it  may  contain  into  the  nearest  pond.  The  old  ponds 
from  which  the  taro  has  been  harvested  are  left  for  a  few  days 
exposed  to  the  sun  for  the  mud  to  harden.  Then  round  or  square 
clumps  are  thrown  up  about  two  feet  high  and  seven  or  eight  in 
circumference,  at  short  distances  from  each  other,  always  in 
straight  lines,  either  across  or  lengthwise.  In  these  clumps  are 
planted  the  crowns  of  the  taro,  from  eight  to  twelve  in  number 
alternately  about  a  foot  apart.  The  crowns  which  they  choose 
for  planting  are  the  top  parts  of  the  taro  cut  across  about  half 
an  inch,  adhering  to  the  leaves,  which  they  shorten  to  the  length 
of  eight  or  nine  inches. 

Round  the  sides  of  the  ponds,  by  the  edge  of  the  water,  is 
often  planted  what  they  term  the  tea  tree8  (dracaena  terminalis), 
the  root  of  which  they  cook  underground  as  is  customary  with 
them  in  everything  else  that  requires  cooking  before  it  is  eaten. 
This  they  afterwards  pound  and  put  into  vessels  full  of  water  and 
let  it  remain  there  for  a  few  days  to  ferment,  when  it  makes  a 
good  substitute  for  beer  of  a  very  intoxicating  quality.  A  piece 
of  the  cooked'  root  which  was  brought  to  me  to  taste  was  as  sweet 

«In  Hawaiian  "Ti  or  "Ki." 


10 

as  sugar  cane,  and  in  my  opinion  contained  an  equal  quantity  of 
saccharine  matter.  If  the  common  process  generally  used  for  the 
making  of  sugar  was  here  once  to  be  introduced,  it  might  be 
turned  to  tne  same  advantage  as  sugar  cane  for  manufacturing 
sugar.  But  whilst  there  is  no  emulation  among  the  natives  for 
commerce  or  cultivating  more  than  is  necessary  to  supply  their 
present  wants,  the  value  that  might  likely  be  found  out  from  this 
plant  with  so  little  trouble  will  probably  yet  remain  for  a  length 
of  time  imperfectly  known. 

One  of  the  said  white  men  took  me  to  his  little  garden  which 
surrounded  his  hut.  Here  I  noticed  Cytisus  cajan  or  the  com- 
mon pigeon  pea  of  the  West  Indies,  which  he  said  was  given  him 
last  year  by  the  captain  of  an  American  whaler  for  coffee,  to- 
gether with  some  seeds  of  the  lima  bean  (Phaseolus  lunatus), 
both  of  which  were  now  in  bearing  for  some  time.  But  being  as 
yet  unacquainted  with  the  way  of  using  them  for  food,  he  al- 
ways felt  afraid  to  touch  them  for  that  purpose.  These,  with  a 
few  light-red  coloured  cabbages,  two  sorts  of  sweet  potatoes  (the 
red  and  white),  water  melons,  pumpkins,  a  few  patches  of  sugar 
cane,  two  or  three  ponds  of  taro  and  some  bitter  gourds  that  are 
used  by  the  natives  for  various  purposes,  such  as  calabashes,  were, 
with  a  hog  and  a  few  fowls,  all  that  he  had  for  the  support  of 
himself  and  family. 

His  wife  is  a  native  woman,  by  whom  he  has  had  three  child- 
ren. He  has  often  applied,  without  success,  to  the  missionaries 
to  baptize  his  children,  but  they  are  considered  by  them  to  be  born 
out  of  wedlock. 

Beyond  the  huts  and  plantations,  I  observed  but  few  plants. 
Some  were  Cleome,  Argemone,  and  two  sorts  of  Malvas,  three  of 
Sidas7  (two  of  which  the  natives  use  for  wreaths  and  necklaces, 
by  stringing  the  flowers  on  a  thread  made  from  the  bark  of  the 
tapa  plant).  In  the  cultivated  grounds  of  the  natives  I  noticed 
they  had  no  plantains  and  only  three  sorts  of  bananas.  One  of 
these  was  much  shorter  than  the  others,  and  different  to  any  I  had 
ever  seen  before.  The  red  banana8  common  in  Otahiti,  has  not 


ilima  of  Hawaiians,  until  recent  years  very  much  used  by 
them  In  making  wreaths  ("leis")  for  the  head  or  neck.  Ilima  blos- 
soms have  given  place  to  meaningless  colored  paper  wreaths. 

sFei  (musa  fei  or  musa  uranascopus)  the  wild  mountain  banana  of 
Tahiti,  which  forms  a  considerable  part  of  the  daily  menu  of  the 
natives  of  that  island.  The  large  bunch  of  fruit  grows  upright  from 


11 

yet  reached  the  Sandwich  Islands,  but  will  now,  no  doubt,  soon  be 
introduced  by  Mr.  Charlton,  who  is  to  visit  that  Island  once  every 
year. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  LAHAINA  IN  1825. 


The  town  of  Lahaina  on  Mowee  Island,  is  composed  of  a  num- 
ber of  low  thatched  huts,  scattered  along  the  sea  shore  for  about  a 
mile  in  length,  and  in  places  nearly  half  that  distance  in  breadth. 
It  lies  on  a  level  flat  at  the  foot  of  the  high  mountains  which  rise 
abruptly  in  the  central  part  of  the  island.  At  the  west  end  of 
the  town  is  a  small  grove  of  coco-nut  trees.  More  towards  the 
town  on  the  sea  beach,  is  a  mud  battery  in  bad  repair,  mounted 
with  five  small  cannon,  in  the  same  neglected  state.  Within  its 
walls  is  a  small  mud  hut,  whitewashed  outside,  where  had  been 
buried  lately  one  of  Tamahamaah's  queens.9  Near  this  fort,  the 
missionaries  have  a  small  thatched  chapel,  with  dwelling  houses 
and  garden  grounds.  Here  I  was  shown  the  only  grape  vine  on 
the  island.  It  was  yet  but  young  and  never  produced  fruit.10 
Close  to  the  beach,  nearly  in  front  of  the  town,  stands  a  brick 
house  of  two  low  stories,  whitewashed  outside,  built  sixteen  years 
ago  by  Tamahamaah  for  his  favorite  queen  Kaumanna,  which  she 
never  inhabited,  choosing  rather  to  live,  after  the  native  fashion, 
in  a  thatched  hut  close  beside  the  other. 

The  town  has  no  regular  streets,  being  all  cultivated  and 
rather  difficult  to  get  from  one  end'  to  the  other  on  account  of 
the  taro  ponds.  It  looked  like  a  well  cultivated  garden,  divided 
into  allotments  by  mud  walls  enclosing  each  family  hut  and  garden. 
Sugar  canes  grow  with  little  trouble  on  the  narrow  ridges  between 
the  taro  ponds,  where  they  have  also  at  times,  cotton,  tobacco, 

the  top  of  the  stem  instead  of  hanging  down  like  the  ordinary  Idnd 
of  banana.  It  requires  to  be  cooked  before  being  eaten.  In  Hille- 
brand's  Flora,  page  434,  it  is  stated  that  the  fei  had  been  introduced 
into  Oahu  from  Tahiti,  and  that  it  grows  in  a  few  of  the  higher  ra- 
vines of  Oahu.  Is  this  a  fact?  Seemann  states  that  this  species  of 
banana  occurs  in  Fiji. 

»Keopuolani,  the  bluest-blooded  wife  of  Kamehameha  I.  She  was 
mother  of  Liholiho  (Kamehameha  II.)  and  Kauikeaouli  (Kamehameha 
III). 

ioAfter  the  date  of  Macrae's  visit,  Lahaina  became  celebrated  for 
its  grapes,  and  whenever  an  inter-island  schooner  or  steamer  touched 
there,  shore  boats  came  off  laden  with  grapes,  mangos,  etc.,  for  sale. 
This  custom  exists  no  longer. 


12 

and  cabbages.  The  tapa  tree  (Brousonettia) ,  from  the  bark  of 
which  they  manufacture  the  cloth  they  wear,  occupies  a  large  pro- 
portion of  their  ground.  It  is  neatly  planted  out  in  rows  and 
kept  free  from  weeds. 

I  was  informed  that  the  number  of  natives  living  at  Lahaina 
exceeded  6000,  and  some  years  before  had  been  far  above  that 
number,  but  since  then  hundreds  had  died  in  a  short  time  from 
some  unknown  fever. 

At  four  p.m.  the  ship's  boats  having  brought  off  the  necessary 
water  and  provisions,  all  on  shore  were  ordered  to  return  on 
board  at  once.  At  six  we  weighed  anchor  and  made  sail  for  the 
island  of  Woahoo,  having  on  board  about  forty  natives,  among 
whom  were  the  mother  of  the  deceased  queen,  and  her  daughter, 
an  interesting  young  girl  of  ten,11  sister  to  the  present  youth  pro- 
claimed king.  This  princess  was  dressed  in  deep  mourning 
brought  her  from  England  by  Madame  Boki.  Several  of  the 
chiefs  who  came  on  board  were  also  clothed  in  European  fashion, 
while  others  of  inferior  rank  had  only  a  shirt  and  maro  without 
a  hat. 

AKEIYES  AT  HONOLULU 

May  6.  Pine  morning.  Made  the  island  of  Woahoo  and  at 
7  a.m.  got  under  Diamond  Head  and  saw  the  Bay  of  Wytitte 
covered  with  thick  groves  of  coco-nut  trees,  where  lay  underneath 
many  of  the  native  huts.  Behind  these  appeared  the  woody 
mountains  rising  in  places  abruptly  and  intersected  by  numerous 
valleys  having  on  each  side  high  peaked  ridges  covered  with  green 
forests. 

At  8  we  were  off  the  harbor  of  Hanarura  and  made  signal 
for  the  pilot.  Shortly  after,  Captain  Charlton  came  on  board  to 
conduct  us  to  safe  anchorage  outside  a  coral  reef  which  runs  across 
the  mouth  of  the  harbour,  nearly  a  mile  from  shore,  and  having 
only  in  one  part  opposite  the  town  a  narrow  passage  over  a  bar 
from  3  to  4  fathoms  of  water.  This  was  thought  too  shallow  for 
our  ship  going  over  to  a  more  convenient  place  in  the  inner  har- 
bour. At  10  on  coming  to  anchor  in  20  fathoms  we  fired  a 
salute  of  15  guns,  which  was,  to  our  surprise,  returned  with  the 
same  number  from  both  forts  on  shore,  where  we  noticed  was 

uNahienaena. 


NAHIENAENA 

(Sister  of  Kamehameha  III.) 

At  the  age  of  10 


From  painting  by  R.  Dampier, 
Artist  of  H.M.S.  "Blonde." 


hoisted  tlie  national  flag,12  having  the  Union  of  Britain  in  the 
upper  corner. 

In  the  harbour  were  three  American  merchant  ships  and  sev- 
eral smaller  vessels,  two  of  which  were  native  brigs  mounted  with 
8  to  10  small  guns.  To  the  west  of  the  harbour  lay  the  wreck  of 
a  whale  ship  of  400  tons,  from  the  port  of  London,  wrecked  two 
weeks  ago  during  the  night  whilst  waiting  for  the  captain,  who 
was  on  shore  enjoying  himself  too  freely.  The  crew  saved  them- 
selves and  her  cargo  of  nearly  800  barrels  of  sperm  oil,  as  also 
most  of  her  spars,  rigging,  etc.,  have  since  been  nearly  all  saved. 

No  one  was  allowed  to  go  on  shore  today  but  the  natives  and 
his  Lordship  and  the  chaplain,  who  upon  landing  were  met  by 
crowds  of  the  natives  making  the  same  howling  noise  as  before 
when  we  were  at  the  island  of  Mowee. 

POI  AND  KAW  FISH 

Since  we  reached  the  islands,  we  have  been  much  amused  at 
the  natives'  simple  manners,  going  to  different  parts  of  the  ship, 
eagerly  examining  what  they  saw.  At  other  times  we  were  not 
a  little  disgusted  when  they  sat  down  to  their  meals,  eating  raw 
fish  with  the  gills  and  entrails  and  their  fingers  covered  with 
blood.  They  appear  to  have  no  stated  time  for  their  meals,  but 
ate  when  they  felt  inclined,  sometimes  as  late  as  12  o'clock  at 
night,  at  other  times  by  daylight  in  the  morning.  Their  diet 
consisted  of  raw  and  dried  fish  and  taro.  The  latter  they  gener- 
ally pound  with  a  mixture  of  cold  water,  on  a  thick  board,  with 
a  stone,  to  nearly  the  same  consistency  as  we  do  starch  for  linen. 

i2it  is  generally  believed  that  the  Hawaiian  national  flag  was  de- 
signed by  a  Scotsman,  Captain  Alexander  Adams,  who  arrived  at  the 
islands  in  1809,  and  resided  there  until  his  death  in  Honolulu  on  Octo- 
ber 27th,  1871,  at  the  advanced  age  of  91  years.  He  lies  buried  in 
Nuuanu  Cemtery  alongside  his  old  crony,  Andrew  Auld.  The  inscrip- 
tion on  their  common  tombstone  reads  as  follows: 

Sacred  to  the  memory  of 
Alexander  Adams,  Andrew  Auld, 

a  native  of  a  native  of 

Arbroth   (sic),  Forfarshire,  Linlithgow,  Scotland. 

Scotland.  Born  Sept.  8,  1799. 

Born  Dec.  27,  1780.  Died  Oct.  26,  1873 

Died  Oct.  17,  1871 

"Twa  croanies  (sic)  frae  the  land  of  heather, 
Are  sleepin'  here  in  death  th'gether." 


14 

Then  it  is  put  into  calabashes  till  it  is  wanted  to  be  eaten.  ^  This 
they  term  poi,  and  is,  when  they  can  procure  fish  to  eat  with  it, 
their  constant  and  favorite  food.  When  a  family  has  its  meals 
they  sit  on  the  ground  in  a  circle,  with  their  calabashes  of  poi  in 
the  centre.  In  turns  they  keep  dipping  the  right  hand  forefinger, 
somewhat  bent,  into  the  same  dish,  and  then  thrust  the  finger  into 
their  mouths.  The  poi  tasted  to  me  sour  and  unpalatable,  but 
when  sweetened  with  sugar  was  greatly  improved,  and  some  on 
board  liked  it. 

NATIVE  MODE  OF  MEASUREMENT 

The  unusual  size  of  our  ship  greatly  attracted  the  natives, 
and  when  they  came  on  board  they  began  to  fathom  her  length 
from  stern  to  bow  along  the  bulwark,  at  other  times  laying  them- 
selves flat  on  the  quarter  deck.  Their  knowledge  of  measurement 
appeared  to  us  to  be  very  imperfect,  only  amounting  to  a  calcula- 
tion of  fathoms  taken  by  the  hands,  dependent  on  memory.  This 
is  different  from  the  Africans,  who  tally  their  numbers  by  notches 
on  a  stick. 

At  8  o'clock  p.m.  we  were  again  surprised  to  hear  the  gun 
from  the  fort,  as  is  customary  at  that  hour  with  the  garrisons  of 
other  nations. 

KAUIKEAOULI,  NAHIENAEJSTA  AND  KALANIMOKU 

May  7.  Went  on  shore  with  Lord  Byron  and  most  of  the 
principal  officers.  On  landing  we  were  met  by  Capt.  Charlton 
and  a  number  of  the  chiefs  ready  to  join  us  in  a  procession  to 
Mr.  Pitt  (Kramaku's)13  house  for  the  purpose  of  being  intro- 
duced. The  chiefs  were  all  dressed  in  European  costume,  and 
on  our  leaving  the  landing  place,  they  in  friendly  manner  placed 
one  of  us  between  every  two  of  themselves,  each  having  hold  of 
our  arm,  till  we  reached  Pitt's  house,  a  small  thatched  hut  pleas- 
antly situated  near  the  farther  end  of  the  town,  within  a  large 
garden  fenced  in  with  high  poles  standing  upright. 

Pitt  was  dressed  in  black.  His  visage  is  thin  and  he  is 
defective  of  an  eye,  but  is  by  no  means  unpleasant  in  his  man- 
ners. At  the  upper  end  of  the  hut  was  a  platform  raised  about 
a  foot  from  the  floor,  covered  with  the  same  kind  of  mats  as  the 
isKalaimoku  or  Kalanimoku,  alias  Billy  Pitt. 


KAUIKEAOULI 
(Kamehameha  III.),  at  the  age  of  11 


From  painting  by  R.  Dampier, 
Artist  of  H.M.S.  "Blonde." 


15 

rest  of  the  hut.  Here  the  young  king14  and  his  sister15,  whom  we 
had  brought  from  Mowee,  were  seated  on  a  shabby  sofa  placed 
crossways,  and  having  at  the  backs  of  it  several  handsome  large 
feather  plumes  of  various  colours,  customarily  used  by  them  in 
former  times  when  at  war  and  on  high  festivals. 

Both  looked  delicate  and  of  rather  dark  complexion.  They 
had  full  nostrils  and  large  mouths,  but  had  fine  open  countenances, 
with  good  eyes  and  teeth,  and  not  altogether  wanting  a  sensibility 
of  look  that  rendered  them  engaging.  The  king  wore  a  short 
blue  jacket  with  shirt  and  pantaloons,  without  shoes  or  stockings. 
His  sister  was  in  the  said  mourning  dress  from  England. 

From  the  king's  sofa  on  the  right,  the  principal  chiefs  and 
general  officers  stood  in  a  line  alongside  the  hut.  From  his  sister 
on  the  left,  lay  on  the  mats  by  her  sofa,  Queen  Kaumanna  and 
two  more  of  their  father's16  wives  still  living.  After  these  three, 
stood,  according  to  their  seniority,  five  of  their  deceased  brother's17 
wives,  joined  by  a  number  of  other  female  chiefesses,  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  hut.  These  were  dressed  in  black  canton  crepe  or  silk 
of  the  same  colour,  with  shoes  and  silk  stockings  and  showy  combs 
in  their  hair,  everyway  neatly  dressed,  contrary  to  what  we  all 
expected  to  find  these  people.  When  the  ceremony  of  being 
introduced  to  the  Regent  (Billy  Pitt)  was  over,  through  the 
Spaniard  (Mr.  Marin18)  who  acted  as  interpreter,  the  presents 
brought  from  England  were  then  presented  to  His  Majesty  by 
Lord  Byron. 

PRESENTS  FROM  ENGLAND 

The  presents  were  a  suit  of  full  dress  Windsor  uniform,  an 
elegant  sword  and  a  gold  watch,  with  the  arms  of  the  king  of 
Great  Britain  engraved  on  the  back.  Pitt  was  presented  with 
a  handsome  gold  ring.  The  king  immediately  tried  on  his 
clothes,  and  found  it  fitted  as  if  made  for  him.  He  looked  ex- 
tremely well  in  them  and  was  proud  when  he  had  on  his  cocked 

uKauikeaouli  (Kamehameha  III). 
"Nahienaena. 

"Widows  of  Kamehameha  I. 
"Widows  of  Kamehameha  II. 

isFrancisco  de  Paula  Marin,  known  to  the  Hawaiians  as  Maninl 
said  to  have  had  52   children,  thus  carrying  into  effect  Kin* 
Kalakaua's  motto  "Hooulu  lahui."  "Increase  the  nation."     Marin  died 
Oct.,  1837,  aged  64  years.     Came  to  the  islands  about  1794 


16 

hat  and  sword,  walking  about  speaking  to  some  of  his  subjects. 

When  the  presentation  ceremony  was  over  we  were  ordered 
to  sit  on  chairs  arranged  for  us  in  the  middle  of  the  hut.  Country 
wine,  made  the  year  before,  was  offered  to  us  by  Mr.  Marin. 
Some  sat  tasting  the  wine,  and  others  got  introduced  to  the  fe- 
males who  were  now  sitting  on  mats.  They  could  only  answer 
with  a  smile,  not  knowing  our  language.  The  queens  were  all  of 
enormous  bulk,  and  by  no  means  handsome. 

THE  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY  OF  LONDON 

Being  tired  of  waiting  any  longer  at  this  mock  formality,  I 
slipped  away  unperceived,  to  look  for  plants,  but  being  missed  by 
Lord  Byron,  I  was  sent  for  to  return,  and  was  presented  to  the 
Regent  as  the  person  who  had  brought  them  plants  from  the 
Horticultural  Society  of  London.  He  was  informed  that  I  wanted 
permission  to  collect  the  wild  plants  of  the  country  for  the  So- 
ciety. Mr.  Pitt,  Regent,  kindly  granted  me  full  liberty  to  col- 
lect what  plants  I  wished.  Lord  Byron,  however,  requested  me 
not  to  begin  collecting  until  the  funeral  was  over. 

HONOLULU  IN  1825 

In  the  afternoon,  with  some  of  the  officers,  I  went  for  a  walk 
through  the  town,  which  is  situated  on  a  sandy  flat,  with  scarcely 
a  tree  for  shade,  except  a  few  coco-nut  trees  in  groups  in  places 
along  the  beach.  The  native  huts  are  small  and  thatched  with 
grass  from  top  to  bottom,  but  there  are  others  inhabited  by  some 
Europeans  and  chiefs,  which  are  covered  over  with  mud,  half  a 
yard  thick,  to  prevent  accidents  by  fire,  which  so  often  occur  in 
the  others.  These  are  better  finished  inside,  and  the  floors 
spread  over  with  mats  made  from  rushes  or  the  leaves  of  pan- 
danus. 

The  huts  of  the  poorer  classes  are  mere  hovels,  having  a  low 
door  placed  where  they  creep  on  hands  and  knees  to  get  out  and 
in,  with  nothing  to  cover  the  opening  hut  a  piece  of  cloth  or  mat. 
Some  of  these  into  which  we  looked  out  of  curiosity,  had  a  hog  or 
two  tied  up  in  a  corner,  and  in  others  a  dog  nearly  hairless  from 
mange.  The  stench  from  having  these  animals  live  with  them  in 
the  same  hut  was  most  offensive.  There  are  as  yet  only  four  or 
five  houses  built  after  the  European  manner.  One  belongs  to  an 
American  merchant,  another  to  Mr.  Pitt,  not  yet  finished,  part  of 


•o 

3  s 
3? 

O    U- 

z    „ 


17 


which  is  at  present  converted  into  a  guard  house  for  a  few  naked 
soldiers  who  do  duty  at  times  by  way  of  mounting  guard  in  front 
of  the  king's  hut,  after  a  peculiar  fashion  of  their  own. 

They  do  this  in  the  following  manner.  Six  or  eight  of  these 
turn  out  together  and  form  a  line  (not  a  straight  one),  and  keep 
walking  backwards  and  forwards,  one  after  another,  till  they  are 
dismissed.  While  they  are  in  this  way  on  duty,  he  that  is  last  or 
foremost  rings  a  small  bell  which  is  carried  in  the  hand  by  way  of 
signal  for  the  others  to  turn  either  backwards  or  forwards.  Their 
accoutrements  are  not  all  alike.  Some  have  only  a  bayonet  in 
their  hand,  held  upright  or  reversed,  just  as  suits  their  conveni- 
ence, while  another  has  an  old  rusty  long  barreled  musket  of 
American  make,  without  a  flint  and  sometimes  a  lock.  Some  have 
a  cartouche  box  tied  on  behind  with  a  piece  of  untanned  goat  skin, 
others  have  it  in  front  and  some  have  none  at  all. 

The  town  of  Hanarura  contains  about  five  or  six  hundred 
houses,  and  if  the  number  of  its  inhabitants  is  taken  at  about 
ten  to  a  hut,  where  they  generally  live  together  in  families  of  two 
or  three  generations,  they  will  amount  to  about  6000,  which,  I 
think,  is  underrated.  Their  huts  are  built  without  any  regular 
form,  enclosed  with  low  mud  walls,  and  a  small  garden,  but  with- 
out taro  ponds  the  same  as  we  saw  at  Mo  wee.  Some  of  these 
gardens  are  cultivated  with  tobacco,  Indian  corn,  water  melons, 
pumpkins,  etc.,  while  others  suffer  weeds  to  grow  and  neglect  cul- 
tivation, preferring  to  use  them  as  a  stockyard  for  hogs,  goats, 
dogs  and  poultry. 

THE  HARBOUR  AND  PUNCHBOWL  FORTS 

Beside  the  harbour  they  have  built  a  fort  of  mud  and  coral 
rock  picked  up  at  low  tide.  It  is  square  and  mounted  with  up- 
ward of  50  guns,  many  of  which  are  18  pounders,  got  from  the 
Americans  in  exchange  for  ganders  wood.  From  its  situation  it  is 
not  capable  of  long  defense  from  an  enemy  at  sea  off  the  mouth 
of  the  harbour.  It  is  at  present  in  bad  repair,  and  is  in  charge  of 
an  old  Irishman,  who  has  been  on  the  island  for  many  years. 

About  a  mile  above  the  town  on  the  top  of  a  hill19  with  the 
appearance  of  a  volcano,  they  have  another  fort  that  mounts  ten 
i»Puowaina  or  Punchbowl  Hill. 


: 


18 

guns,  which  command  the  town  and  the  taro  ponds  with  other 
provisions  cultivated  in  a  large  valley  well  watered  by  two  rivers 
which  run  on  each  side  till  they  meet  in  one  behind  the  town. 

Among  the  many  Americans  who  live  011  the  island,  two  keep 
public  houses  for  the  accommodation  of  strangers  where  they  have 
managed  to  introduce  a  billiard  table  each,  and  are  supplied  with 
all  kinds  of  spirits  as  well  as  wine  at  times  from  their  country 
whale  ships  touching  here  for  fresh  provisions  and  water. 

SEES  THE  HULA 

May  8.  Sunday.  Went  on  shore  after  dinner  with  several 
of  the  gentlemen  from  on  board.  Met  Mr.  Charlton,  who  agreed 
upon  tomorrow  for  me  to  go  with  him  to  Mr.  Pitt  to  arrange  mat- 
ters about  my  going  to  the  woods  collecting.  Mr.  Charlton  of- 
fered me  the  use  of  three  of  his  jackasses  brought  from  England, 
to  carry  myself  and  specimens.  These,  I  assured  him,  would  be 
more  hindrance  than  use,  and  asked  him  for  three  natives  in  pre- 
ference, but  in  the  end  I  was  obliged  to  accept  one  jackass,  as  he 
would  take  no  denial.  He  promised  to  have  ready  what  natives 
I  wanted  as  well  as  a  guide. 

In  the  cultivated  grounds  above  the  town,  I  noticed  some  good 
sugar  canes,  mostly  of  the  purple  striped  kind,  and  a  few  patches 
of  potatoes  with  weak  stems  not  likely  to  be  productive.  Returned 
on  board  in  the  evening  having  been  much  amused  observing  the 
natives'  simple  manners  and  mode  of  dancing,  which  they  accom- 
pany with  a  song  and  graceful  motions  of  the  arms  and  body, 
raising  their  voice  at  intervals  to  a  high  key,  then  again  lowering 
it,  without  any  given  certain  time  that  had  in  the  least  resemb- 
lance to  music. 

The  inhabitants  here  all  approached  us  without  the  least  tim- 
idity like  those  we  saw  at  the  other  islands,  probably  arising  from 
greater  intercourse  with  foreigners.  Several  could  speak  a  good 
many  words  of  English,  to  whom  they  are  much  attached,  and 
often  we  heard  the  word  "Britanee  maitee,"  which  means  "English 
very  good"  and  superior  to  people  of  other  nations,  whom  they 
look  upon  with  jealousy. 


19 

SANDAL  WOOD  TRADE 

May  9.19a.  Got  nothing  arranged  as  promised  by  Mr.  Charl- 
ton  as  to  my  collecting,  owing  to  the  preparations  making  for  the 
funeral.  The  natives  load  vessels  annually  with  sanders20  wood 
for  which  they  get  in  exchange  European  and  Chinese  manufac- 
tured goods  with  every  advantage  to  the  foreigners.  So  eager,  I 
was  informed,  have  the  traders  been  since  the  discovery  of  this 
native  wood  by  one  of  themselves,  named  Brown,21  in  1810,  that 
every  kind  of  scheme  has  been  entered  into  for  supplying  the  gov- 
ernment with  such  articles  as  they  thought  would  most  attract 
notice  and  likely  to  be  purchased.  For  this  purpose  they  have 
introduced  slight  vessels  built  of  fir,  fitted  with  showy  cabins  with 
looking  glasses,  sofas  with  red  morocco  cushions,  etc.,  and  sold 
them  at  the  enormous  price  of  80,000  dollars22  to  be  paid  for  in 
sanders  wood  as  it  could  be  got  from  the  different  islands,  without 
further  trouble  to  themselves  than  the  bringing  it  to  the  sea  beach. 
For  the  traders  themselves  have  small  craft  constantly  in  the  har- 
bour of  Hanarura  where  they  have  on  shore  large  store  houses  for 
the  convenience  of  lading  vessels.  Besides  vessels,  the  traders 
have  furnished  the  natives  with  all  sorts  of  naval  and  military 
stores,  also  small  wooden  frames  of  houses  made  in  America,  and 
light  carts,  some  with  two,  others  with  four  wheels.  These 
scheming  speculators  have  lately  brought  over  a  handsome  car- 
riage, hoping  to  barter  it  to  advantage,  but  in  this  they  have  been 
disappointed,  although  the  Regent  and  some  of  the  queens  were 
treated  to  a  ride  in  it  soon  after  it  was  landed.  The  natives  still 
prefer  the  carts  where  they  can  lie  down  with  more  ease  when 
they  go  to  bathe.  These  carts  are  used  but  rarely  on  any  other  oc- 

i9a.  In  the  afternoon  of  May  9,  1825,  a  party  of  officers  from  the 
Blonde  came  ashore  and  marked  out  the  first  cricket  ground  that  was 
probably  ever  used  in  the  isles  of  the  Pacific.  In  later  years  the  Fiji- 
ans,  Tongans  and  Samoans  became  very  fond  of  cricket,  playing  up 
to  say  50  to  100  men  on  each  side!  In  Hawaii  cricket  never  caught  on. 
It  was  too  slow  a  game  and  baseball  is  preferred. 

2oSandalwood. 

2iThis  Brown  was  not  the  Captain  Brown  who  discovered  Hono- 
lulu harbor  and  gave  it  the  name  of  Fairhaven.  The  latter  Brown  was 
massacred  by  the  natives  in  1795. 

22e.g.,  Cleopatra's  Barge,  sold  to  Liholiho  for  $90,000,  payable  in 
sandalwood,  and  renamed  "Haaheo  o  Hawaii" — "The  Pride  of  Hawaii." 
Two  paintings  of  this  vessel  are  exhibited  in  the  Marine  Room  of  the 
Peabody  Museum  of  Salem,  Mass. 


20 

casion,  and  are  drawn  by  natives  in  preference  to  horses  or  mules 
of  which  they  have  several  on  which  they  often  ride  without 
saddles. 

BATHING  THE  CHIEF  AMUSEMENT 

Bathing  is  their  chief  amusement  and  alone  induces  many  of 
the  higher  ranks  of  them  to  leave  their  homes,  where  they  spend 
most  of  their  time  sitting  or  lying  down  asleep  on  mats.  But  the 
whole  tribe  is  so  fond  of  bathing  that  the  sea  shore  is  seldom  seen 
without  numbers  of  both  sexes  swimming  with  perfect  ease,  as  if 
some  speceis  of  aquatic  creatures. 

EARLY  AMERICAN  SETTLERS 

Although  the  Americans  have  been  on  the  islands  for  many 
years  and  enjoyed  lucrative  trade  and  made  good  fortunes,  none 
of  them  have  yet  possessed  lands  of  their  own  in  this  country, 
whether  from  the  aversion  of  the  chiefs  to  strangers  or  from  the 
Americans  caring  only  to  trade  in  sanders  wood  and  not  take 
leases  or  grants  of  lands.  Anyway  they  have  but  little  improved 
the  morals  of  the  natives,  and  have  neglected  to  teach  them  the 
arts  of  agriculture  beyond  what  they  already  understood  them- 
selves when  visited  by  Cook  and  Vancouver,  viz.,  that  of  growing 
the  taro  root,  their  chief  food.  Even  this  was  much  neglected 
during  the  late  king's  reign,  who,  unlike  his  father  (Tamahamaah) 
encouraged  gambling  and  vices  of  all  kinds.  It  is  said  of  this  late 
king  that  during  his  reign,  till  his  departure  for  England,  he  ind- 
dulged  in  every  kind  of  debauchery  and  intemperance. 

LIHOLIHO  AND  HIS  HAREM 

The  old  Irishman  who  had  charge  of  the  guns  at  the  forts, 
told  me  tales  of  him,  and  showed  me  the  king's  hut  where  he  lived 
till  he  started  for  England.  It  was  divided  into  two  halves,  one 
of  these  being  again  divided  into  separate  apartmenes  by  low  can- 
vas screens  for  his  six  wives,  who  lived  separately  and  never  as- 
sociated together  or  with  the  king,  except  one  at  a  time.  The 
said  king  had  similar  accommodations  fitted  up  on  a  brig  (the 
Albatross),  whefe  he  sometimes  went  with  his  wives  for  a  cruise 
to  sea  for  two  months  together,  taking  the  Irishman  as  his  cap- 
tain. During  such  a  cruise  he  had  hardly  ever  been  free  from 
intoxication. 


21 

The  royal  coffins  were  being  cleared  from  the  hold  and  were 
to  be  brought  on  deck  the  next  day. 

May  10.  The  coffins  brought  on  deck,  and  those  who  wished, 
could  look  at  the  king  and  queen,  for  the  outer  case  lids  were  re- 
moved. Arranged  with  Lord  Byron  and  Mr.  Charlton  to  have 
a  hut  ashore,  as  I  could  do  nothing  with  my  plants  on  board  for 
want  of  room.  Learned  that  the  funeral  would  take  place  early 
the  following  day. 

FUNERAL  OF  LIHOLIHO  AND  KAMAMALU 

May  11.  The  coffins  were  lowered  over  the  ship's  side  into 
the  launch.  Those  going  on  shore  to  the  ceremony  got  into  boats 
at  1  p.m.,  the  boats  forming  a  line  ahead  of  the  launch  to  tow  her 
ashore.  Lord  Byron  went  in  his  gig  on  the  right,  the  first  lieu- 
tenant in  the  whale  boat  on  the  left,  with  colors  in  all  the  boats 
hoisted  half  mast.  On  leaving  the  ship  26  minute  guns  were 
fired,  which  was  continued  by  the  same  number  of  guns  from  the 
forts  on  shore  and  a  few  from  an  American  ship  in  harbour.  The 
procession  of  boats  towing  the  bodies  had  a  grand  and  solemn  ap- 
pearance. On  landing,  the  coffins  were  placed  on  two  light  four- 
wheeled  carts,  coverecj  with  native  black  tapa  cloth,  the  head  ends 
of  the  coffin  in  view,  and  drawn  side  by  side  by  their  late  ma- 
jesties' favorite  domestics,  preceded  by  our  marines  and  the  band 
playing  slow  marches.  Next  after  the  wagons  came  his  present 
majesty,  supported  on  the  right  by  Lord  Byron  and  on  the  left  by 
Mr.  Charlton,  the  British  consul,  all  in  full  uniform. 

After  these  came  the  lieutenant  and  gunroom  messmates  and 
the  queens  in  black,  but  many  of  the  latter  without  shoes  and 
stockings.  I  followed  with  some  passengers,  and  then  the  lower 
rank  natives  and  at  the  end  about  100  sailors,  four  deep,  with  a 
midshipman  right  and  left.  Thus  we  advanced  between  a  line 
of  native  soldiers  with  rusty  arms  reversed,  naked  except  for  the 
maro,  save  a  few  that  had  on  Russian  military  jackets  and  six  on 
each  side  wore  handsome  coloured  feather  tippets.  These  twelve 
we  concluded  must  be  of  higher  rank.  The  five  large  feather 
plumes,  used  on  the  day  of  introducetion,  were  carried  before  the 
band  in  a  leaning  posture,  as  they  do  when  going  into  battle. 

The  procession  halted  at  the  missionaries'  chapel,  where  our 
chaplain  read  a  prayer  in  English,  and  then  one  of  the  mission- 
aries did  the  same  in  the  native  language.  Resuming  our  way, 


22 

the  procession  reached  Mr.  Pitt's  hut,  between  two  and  three 
o'clock.  The  marines  formed  a  line  in  front  outside  the  hut. 
The  weighty  coffins  were  taken  from  the  wagons  by  the  sailors 
and  deposited  011  a  platform  inside  the  hut.  Here  the  queens  of 
the  deceased  king,  joined  by  three  of  his  father's  still  alive,  and 
who  are  of  higher  rank,  stood  at  the  head  of  the  coffins,  and  were 
joined  by  the  wives  and  daughters  of  the  chiefs  forming  a  line 
on  one  side  of  the  hut.  Pitt,  Boki23  and  other  chiefs  of  conse- 


quence  were  admitted,  together  with  the  principal  officers  of  the 
Blonde  and  a  few  Americans.  No  inferior  class  of  natives  were 
admitted  nor  had  been  allowed  to  join  in  the  procession. 

Then  the  chaplain  gave  out  an  anthem.  It  was  accompanied 
by  the  band.  A  prayer  followed,  then  the  same  performance  by 
a  missionary  in  the  native  tongue.  Pitt,  who  had  never  joined 
the  procession,  remained  at  home  in  his  arm  chair,  as  usual 
dressed  in  black. 

The  whole  ceremony  was  conducted  with  solemnity  from  the 
time  of  leaving  the  Blonde  to  the  finish.  One  mistake,  however, 
had  been  made.  ~No  invitation  had  been  given  to  the  few  respect- 
able Americans  resident  in  the  place ;  why  is  best  known  to  those 
who  had  the  conducting  of  the  funeral,  for  they  were  left  to  form 
a  small  body  by  themselves  on  one  side,  away  from  the  procession. 
It  could  not  have  been  the  wish  of  the  chiefs,  for  they  were  seen 
often  on  their  way  to  leave  their  places  and  join  the  Americana, 
especially  Boki. 

On  the  conclusion  of  the  ceremony,  all  belonging  to  the  ship 
were  ordered  back  to  their  boats  in  marching  order,  with  the  band 

23Boki,  Boke  or  rather  Poki,  younger  brother  of  Kalanimoku.  He 
and  his  Wife  Liliha  accompanied  Liholiho  to  England.  In  "A  Visit 
to  the  South  Seas,"  the  Rev.  C.  S.  Stewart  mentions  that  when  he  re- 
visited Honolulu  in  1829,  he  found  "the  neat  wooden  building  erected 
near  the  fort  by  the  regent  Kaahumanu,  and  occupied  by  Lord  Byron 
during  his  visit,  had  been  removed  into  the  town,  on  the  level  ground, 
some  distance  from  the  water,  near  Mr.  Jones;  and,  fitted  with  green 
blinds,  a  flagstaff  and  lookout,  stands  a  conspicuous  object,  both  from 
the  water  and  on  shore,  as  the  Blonde  Hotel,  owned  by  Governor 
Boki." 


KALANIMOKU 
(Billy    Pitt) 


Drawn  from  life  by  L.  Choris 


23 

in  front  playing  lively  tunes.  The  natives  broke  through  their 
soldiers'  guard  and  clustered  around  us,  evincing  great  astonish- 
ment at  the  great  drum,  and  accompanying  us  to  the  harbour, 
where  the  ship's  company  were  served  with  grog,  and  the  officers 
had  similar  refreshment  at  Lord  Byron's  house.  By  five  p.m. 
all  were  safely  back  on  board.  Mr.  Dampier,  the  draftsman,  had 
been  stationed  at  an  early  hour  where  he  could  best  make  a  draw- 
ing of  the  funeral  procession,24  and  is  said  to  have  already  begun 
taking  portraits  of  some  of  the  queens  with  whom  he  has  taken 
up  his  residence  among  them  at  their  homes. 

BOTANIZES  IN  NUTJANU  VALLEY 

May  12.  Had  permission  from  Lord  Byron  to  go  on  shore 
to  collect ;  also  the  favour  of  a  lad  from  the  ship  to  assist.  Took 
some  salt  provisions,  biscuits  and  my  bedding  on  shore  at  3  p.m. 
Stored  these  at  first  in  one  of  the  rooms  of  a  wooden  house  appor- 
tioned to  Lord  Byron  during  his  stay,  but  afterwards  I  went  to 
the  hut  of  one  of  the  natives  (Mamaware25),  brought  out  with  us 
from  England,  who  had  begged  me  that  when  he  got  home  I 
would  consider  his  house  my  home.  On  my  applying  for  the  ful- 
filment of  his  promise,  he  coolly  forgot  all  about  his  obligations  to 
me,  and  told  me  he  knew  of  no  hut  for  me,  but  that  perhaps  Pitt 
might  find  me  one. 

I  then  went  on  board  Mr.  Charlton's  vessel26  where  he  resided 
in  preference  to  living  on  shore,  but  was  again  deeply  disap- 
pointed, as  he  had  Lord  Byron  and  others  at  the  time  on  board  to 
dinner.  When  I  met  Mr.  A.  Bloxam,27  who  wanted  to  accompany 
me  to  the  woods,  and  he  proposed  that  we  should  both  lodge  in 
Lord  Byron's  house  for  the  night. 

May  13.  Got  up  at  4  a.m.,  called  the  lad  (Mantle)  and  by 
5  we  were  ready  for  our  journey,  taking  salt  beef  and  biscuits 

24Some  of  the  drawings  by  Robert  Dampier,  artist  on  board  the 
Blonde,  appeared  in  the  volume  called  An  Account  of  the  Voyage  of 
the  Blonde,  which  was  compiled  by  a  Mrs.  Maria  Graham.  The  same 
views  and  portraits  of  Hawaiian  chiefs  were  also  published  in  port- 
folio form. 

ssManuia. 

26The  schooner  Active,  belonging  to  Capt.  Richard  Charlton,  on 
board  which  he  traded  throughout  the  Pacific.  It  was  this  vessel  that 
brought  the  Rev.  Wm.  Ellis  to  Honolulu,  February  4th,  1823,  on  his 
second  visit  from  Tahiti. 

2 T Andrew  Bloxom  acted  as  a  sort  of  amateur  naturalist  on  the 
Blonde,  while  his  brother  Rowland  Bloxom  was  the  ship's  chaplain. 


24 

with  us  and  one  of  Mr.  Charlton's  asses  to  carry  our  packs. 
Mantle  had  charge  of  the  ass.  He  could  neither  ride,  drive  nor 
lead  the  ass  fast  enough  to  keep  up  with  us.  It  was  therefore 
agreed  to  cast  the  ass  adrift,  leaving  the  pack  saddle  in  one  of  the 
native  huts.  In  crossing  over  the  taro  ponds  to  get  to  the  woods, 
except  being  surrounded  by  low  stone  walls  for  several  miles,  I 
did  not  notice  any  difference  in  their  cultivation  from  those  I  had 
seen  at  the  island  of  Mowee.  Here  perhaps  the  pond's  were  rather 
better  weeded.  After  having  travelled  for  three  miles  we  came 
to  a  fine,  clear  stream,  where  we  halted  to  breakfast.  We  were 
surrounded  by  crowds  of  natives  from  the  neighboring  huts,  who 
sat  down  on  their  hams,  with  us  in  the  middle.  They  looked  like 
so  many  starved  dogs,  staring  at  each  mouthful  of  beef  or  biscuit 
that  we  took.  Hoping  to  shame  them  away,  we  gave  several  of 
them  food,  but  it  only  caused  crowds  to  come  till  at  last  we 
had  to  tie  up  our  provisions  and  move  on. 

During  the  time  we  stopped  at  the  rvier,  I  gathered  two 
specimens  of  polypodiums  and  three  of  convolvulus,  besides  a 
hibiscus  with  flowers,  white  inside  and  light  purple  out.  We  had 
not  gone  far,  still  followed  by  a  number  of  natives,  when  we  came 
on  a  chief  digging  up  sweet  potatoes.  He  addressed  us  in  Eng- 
lish and  was  very  friendly,  and  on  hearing  of  the  object  of  our 
journey  he  gave  Mr.  Bloxom  a  young  active  boy  to  carry  his  traps 
till  our  return  to  town. 

By  10  we  began  to  enter  the  woods,  having  travelled  about 
five  miles  most  of  the  way  through  taro  ponds  and  cultivated 
patches  of  sweet  potatoes,  bananas,  water  melons,  etc.,  and  in 
places  near  the  river,  a  few  low,  unhealthy  bread  fruit  trees,  not 
in  bearing. 

OKOLEHAO  IN  1825. 

The  tea  tree  (dracaena)  of  the  country  grew  in  all  places,  un- 
cultivated in  abundance.  It  was  2  to  4  feet  high  and  about  l1^ 
inches  in  diameter.  Beyond  the  provision  grounds,  where  it  grew 
in  great  abundance,  were  sheds  where  the  chiefs,  during  the  last 
king's  reign,  had  been  in  the  habit  of  distilling  great  quantities  of 
spirits  from  the  fermented  liquor  made  from  the  roQts,  by  means 
of  large  iron  try-pots  obtained  from  whale  ships  in  exchange  for 
provisions.28 

28The  art  of  distilling  spirituous  liquors  from  ti  (dracaena)   root 
is  said  to  have  been  introduced  into  Hawaii  before  1800.      Under  the 


25 

BIRDS  AND  BLOSSOMS  IN  NUUANU  VALLEY 

On  entering  the  woods  we  met  with  two  trees  of  the  Eugenia 
mala-ccensis,  on  which  were  a  number  of  birds  sucking  its  red 
blossoms.  Mr.  B.  had  the  luck  to  shoot  one  of  them,  which  he 
said  was  a  species  of  humming  bird.20  My  meeting  with  this  kind 
of  rose-apple,  apparently  growing  here  indigenous,  so  far  from 
habitations,  rather  surprised  me  in  the  Sandwich  Islands.  The 
other  trees  seen  were  common, — aleurites,  and  a  species  of  acacia, 
used  by  the  natives  for  making  their  canoes  and  paddles.  On 
the  ground  below  were  mixed  a  variety  of  handsome  ferns  in  all 
kind  of  places,  moist  and  dry.  Further  towards  the  centre  of 
the  island,  the  trees  became  more  lofty  and  the  ground  below  them 
more  shady  and  damp,  where  there  appeared  several  species  of 
Psychotrias  and  Beselerias  with  two  or  three  tall-growing  Lobelias 
with  splendid  clusters  of  flowers.  There  were  also  three  kinds  of 
Metrosideros  with  rich  bunches  of  scarlet  flowers.  These  were 
covered  with  birds,  sucking  honey  from  the  blossoms,  which  we 
shot,  but  could  not  afterwards  find,  owing  to  the  thick  growth  of 
ferns,  plants,  etc. 

NUUANU  PALI 

We  gained  the  head  of  the  valley  at  5  p.m.,  having  travelled 
about  ten  miles,  when  we  had  a  splendid  view  of  the  Pacific  Ocean 
on  both  sides  of  the  island.  Here  we  had  a  cool  breeze,  occasioned 
by  the  valley  terminating  in  a  narrow  gap,  overhung  on  each  side 
by  high  abrupt  cliffs  covered  with  tufts  of  lycopodium  cernum, 
so  common  within  the  tropics,  and  two  or  three  kinds  of  vaccini- 
ums,  besides  other  low  shrubby  plants  which  clothe  this  mountain, 
at  least  3000  feet  to  its  summit,  with  pleasant  verdure.  At  this 
point  there  is  a  path  which  leads  down  to  the  valley  on  the  other 
side  of  the  island. 

18th  amendment  to  the  U.  S.  Constitution,  the  manufacture  of  all 
kinds  of  spirituous  or  malt  liquors  is  made  illegal  in  the  United  States, 
of  which  Hawaii  now  forms  a  part.  Notwithstanding  this,  the  illicit 
distillation  of  spirits  made  from  rice,  pineapples,  maize,  etc.,  is  car- 
ried on  to  a  much  greater  extent  than  in  former  years,  and  during  the 
year  1921  over  $60,000  in  fines  were  collected  in  Hawaii  from  trans- 
gressors of  the  prohibition  law.  The  distillation  of  spirits  from  ti  root 
was  introduced  into  Tahiti  in  1798  by  two  Sandwich  Islanders  who  had 
deserted  from  the  British  N.W.  Coast  fur  trader  Nautilus. 

2»There  are  no  humming  birds  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands. 


26 

While  we  were  at  this  place,  which  is  a  thoroughfare  for  the 
natives  crossing  the  island,  we  were  surprised  to  be  overtaken  by 
a  man,  better  dressed  than  the  rest  of  the  natives,  who  accosted  us 
in  English  and  very  familiarly  entered  into  conversation.  He 
told  us  he  was  a  native  of  Otahiti,  which  he  had  left  when  a  boy 
to  serve  on  a  whale  ship.  Afterwards  he  was  in  the  British  navy, 
till  he  was  wounded  at  the  battle  of  Algiers,  when  he  was  dis- 
charged as  unfit  for  service  with  a  pension  of  twenty-five  pounds 
a  year.  Having  learned  from  this  man  that  we  could  travel  by 
the  sea  coast  round  the  east  side  of  the  island  to  the  town  next 
day,  we  decided  to  remain  in  some  hut  for  the  night.  But  in 
order  to  advance  farther,  we  had  to  make  the  most  difficult  des- 
cent to  the  bottom  of  the  precipice  by  a  winding  rocky  path,  in 
places  for  several  yards  together  quite  perpendicular.  We  had 
to  take  off  our  shoes  and  to  scramble  as  best  we  could,  at  times 
backwards  on  our  hands  and  knees.  The  natives  in  our  company 
carried  their  loads  seemingly  with  perfect  ease,  and  enjoyed  heart- 
ily seeing  us  in  the  least  terror  to  go  on,  coming  to  our  assistance 
to  prevent  our  falling.  Fortunately  we  got  to  the  bottom  with- 
out any  accident,  and  soon  came  to  two  or  three  small  huts  where 
we  obtained  lodgings  for  the  night  in  the  hut  of  a  Bengal  black, 
who  had  been  wrecked  in  an  Indiaman  on  the  coast  some  years 
ago,  and  had  since  then  lived  on  the  island  with  a  native  woman, 
by  whom  he  had  several  children.  He  spoke  good  English,  and 
told  us  he  was  a  tailor,  and  sometimes  acted  as  cook  for  the  king 
before  he  went  to  England. 

VISITS  KANEOHE 

As  it  was  not  yet  dark,  we  proposed  a  walk  to  the  sea  side, 
about  1%  miles  distant,  while  our  host  cooked  us  supper.  On  our 
way  we  passed  several  native  huts  with  little  patches  of  cultivated 
ground,  chiefly  planted  with  Brousonettia,  from  the  bark  of  which 
they  make  the  tapa  cloths.  They  also  cultivate  a  plant  which 
they  name  None,30  for  the  sake  of  its  fruit,  which  yields  their 
favorite  yellow  dye  for  the  tapa  cloths.  In  the  hollows  were  some 
taro  ponds  and  several  groves  of  healthy  trees  of  the  rose  apple, 
growing  apparently  without  any  cultivation  and  coming  into  fruit. 
The  bay  is  open  and  exposed  and  full  of  rocks  in  many  places 
above  water,  which  renders  it  unsafe  for  vessels  to  anchor.  It  is 
full  of  fish. 


(Morinda  citrifolia),  a  plant  found  throughout    Polynesia, 
Malaysia,  etc. 


27 

The  high  ridge  of  mountains  which  runs  nearly  in  the  centre 
of  the  island,  terminates  on  this  side  in  high  abrupt  cliffs.  Along 
the  coast  for  four  or  five  miles  back  into  the  interior,  the  country 
is,  as  in  the  neighborhood  of  Hanarura,  left  everywhere  unculti- 
vated as  nature  had  formed  it,  excepting  the  small  patches  round 
the  native  huts.  Although  there  is  good  pasture,  none  of  the 
government  cattle  have  yet  been  sent  to  this  side  from  Hanarura 
to  feed. 

On  our  return  we  found  some  taro  root  ready  baked  under 
ground  with  hot  stones,  and  a  small  fresh  water  fish  of  the  .mullet 
kind  cooked  in  the  same  way,  enclosed  in  the  leaf  of  a  tea  tree. 
We  slept  on  mats  by  the  side  of  the  Bengal  black  and  his  wife. 
with  her  father  and  mother  and  the  rest  of  the  family,  in  all,  up- 
wards of  a  dozen  men,  women  and  children,  besides  several  dogs, 
thickly  stowed  together  at  one  end  of  the  hut  without  distinction. 

May  14.  iG-ot  up  at  4  a.m.,  after  a  restless  night  from  fleas 
and  cold,  the  hut  being  so  open  that  light  could  be  seen  through 
it.  Informed  by  our  landlord  that  going  round  the  island,  as  we 
intended  and  were  told  by  the  Otahitian,  would  take  but  one  day, 
would,  in  reality,  take  two  days.  For  want  of  provisions,  we 
were  reluctantly  obliged  to  return  by  the  road  we  had  come.  We 
left  our  host  at  5  a.m.,  the  dew  still  on  the  grass,  after  giving  him 
a  trifle  for  his  last  night's  trouble. 

CLIMBS  THE  NUUANU  PALI 

We  overtook  a  number  of  natives  at  the  precipice,  which  we 
had  found  so  difficult  to  descend.  Most  of  the  natives  were 
loaded  with  provisions  for  the  chiefs,  such  as  large  hogs,  tied  to- 
gether by  the  four  feet  and  carried  on  the  back,  at  other  times 
led  or  driven.  Others  with  bundles  of  taro  or  large  calabashes 
of  poi,  secured  to  each  end  of  a  staff  thrown  across  the  shoulder, 
and  travelling  thus  with  a  short  shuffling  step,  stopping  to  rest 
themselves  every  now  and  then,  and  to  have  a  draw  in  turn  from 
a  wooden  tobacco  pipe,  and  then  resume  their  journey  as  before. 

TATOOING  AND  HAIR  DRESSING 

They  have  no  calculation  of  time,  beyond  the  rising  and  set- 
ting of  the  sun,  and  only  care  to  gain  some  hut  for  the  night, 
being  too  superstitious  to  travel  after  dark.  Both  sexes  are  gen- 
erally tatooed  irregularly,  with  figures  of  goats,  muskets  and  even 
letters  of  the  alphabet,  Name  and  birthplace  with  date  of  the 
year  are  often  seen  tatooed  along  the  arm.  Many  of  the  men 


28 

shave  their  heads,  and  cut  their  hair  in  the  form  of  a  helmet, 
the  crest  of  which  is  often  stained  with  lime,  so  as  to  be  of  a  light 
whitish  colour.  The  women  esteem  it  cut  short,  with  a  rim  over 
the  forehead  bleached  white  and  standing  up  in  front  like  bristles. 
Sometimes  a  long  curl  is  preserved  in  the  middle  of  the  forehead, 
which  is  combed  backwards.  Some  suffer  their  hair  to  grow  and 
tie  it  up  behind  in  a  bunch.  Many  of  the  females,  different  from 
any  of  the  other  sex,  have  a  tatooed  line  about  two  inches  broad 
inside  the  thigh  down  as  low  as  the  ankle,  where  it  terminates 
in  the  form  of  a  ring  generally  on  the  right  foot.  Most  of  them 
had  a  looking  glass  and  a  wooden  tobacco  pipe  tied  round  the  neck 
in  a  handkerchief  or  piece  of  tapa  cloth.  They  are  very  fond  of 
smoking,  and  are  seldom  seen  without  a  pipe,  and  curiously  enough 
the  habit  among  them  is,  though  most  of  both  sexes  have  and 
carry  a  pipe,  for  one  of  them  to  light  his  or  her  pipe,  and  after  a 
few  draws  by  the  person  who  filled  it,  to  pass  it  along  without  dis- 
tinction of  persons,  until  all  have  had  a  draw  at  it. 

By  ten  o'clock  we  were  nearly  through  the  wood,  when  Mr. 
B.,  impatient  of  waiting  for  us,  parted  from  us,  he  to  return 
home  before  the  sun's  heat  increased,  while  I  remained  behind 
in  order  to  collect  more  plants  not  met  with  yesterday.  When 
I  arrived  in  Hanarura,  I  found  that  no  place  had  been  arranged 
for  me,  while  I  am  out  in  the  woods.  Got  all  my  traps  moved 
on  board  and  lay  out  my  plant  specimens  on  paper. 

May  15.  Sunday.  Church  service  on  board  at  10.  Spent 
most  of  the  day  laying  out  specimens,  sorting  seed,  etc.  The 
surveyor,  purser  and  midshipman,  in  the  whale  boat,  were  upset 
in  the  surf  going  on  shore,  and  had  a  twenty  minutes  ducking, 
till  another  boat  went  to  their  assistance. 

May  16.  Went  on  shore  with  Mr.  Forder,  who  intends  to 
remain  ashore  and  draw  plants,  and  take  care  of  the  hut  provided 
for  me,  while  I  am  out  in  the  woods.  Got  all  my  traps  moved 
into  my  hut,  which  is  about  half  a  mile  east  of  the  town,  and  has 
never  been  tenanted  before.  Shifted  my  specimens,  while  Mantle 
slung  our  hammocks  across  the  corners  of  the  hut.  Before  dusk, 
Lord  Byron  and  the  surgeon  rode  out  to  ask  if  I  would  care  to 
go  with  them  and  a  party  to  Pearl  Kiver  by  water,  and  if  so,  had 
better  breakfast  with  them  at  8  a.m. 

TRIP  TO  PEARL  RIVER  OR  HARBOUR 

May  17.  Joined  Lord  Byron's  party,  with  Mantle  carrying 
my  traps.  We  did  not  embark  until  noon.  After  two  hours 


TATOOED    HAWAIIAN    CHIEF 
Playing  the  game  of  balancing  on  stone  ball 


29 

sailing  along  the  coast,  we  entered  the  mouth  of  the  Pearl  River, 
which  divides  itself  into  several  branches,  forming  two  islands. 
One  which  is  smaller  than  the  other  is  called  Rabbit  island,  from 
a  person,  the  name  of  Marine,  a  Spaniard,  residing  at  Hanarura, 
having  put  rabbits  on  it  some  years  ago.  The  rabbits  have  since 
increased  in  numbers. 

It  became  so  calm,  that  his  Lordship,  Mr.  C.,  and  the  Blox- 
oms  left  us  in  the  launch,  and  rowed  in  the  small  boat  in  tow,  and 
soon  disappeared  from  sight.  We  waited  in  suspense,  hour  after 
hour,  not  knowing  the  several  branches  of  the  river,  nor  where  we 
were  to  spend  the  night.  The  boat  party  pulling  into  one  branch 
of  the  river,  the  other  in  which  I  was  tacking  about  from  bank  to 
bank  till  the  boaters  hauled  their  boat  ashore  and  we  cast  anchor. 
Both  parties  were  opposite  each  other  on  Rabbit  Island,  but  ig- 
norant of  the  fact,  till  on  walking  about  the  island,  the  parties 
met.  One  hut  was  noticed,  and  those  on  the  island  made  for  it, 
but  the  launch  having  the  ladies  and  some  others  on  board,  got  up 
anchor  and  sailed  round  to  the  hut,  where  with  the  help  of  canoes, 
they  all  landed.  The  ladies  were  somewhat  discontented,  but 
after  a  good  dinner  partaken  sitting  on  mats  spread  on  the  grass, 
harmony  was  restored. 

At  dusk  we  embarked  to  cross  to  a  larger  hut.  Landed  at  8 
p.m.  At  ten  o'clock  two  old  men  entered  our  hut  to  play  the 
hura  dance  011  a  couple  of  bottle  shaped  gourds.  They  took  a 
sitting  posture,  beating  time  on  the  gourd's  with  the  palms  of  their 
hands,  accompanied  by  a  song  made  up  about  the  late  king. 

About  11,  we  all  retired  to  rest,  lying  down  beside  each 
other  on  mats,  some  with  pumpkins  or  what  else  they  could  get 
for  a  pillow.  The  ladies  got  themselves  screened  off  in  a  corner 
with  a  flag  without  any  other  accommodation. 

Pearl  River  is  about  seven  miles  west  of  Hanarura,  and  is 
improperly  called  a  river,  being  rather  inlets  from  the  sea,  branch- 
ing off  in  different  directions.  There  are  three  chief  branches, 
named  by  the  surveyors,  the  East,  Middle  and  West  Lochs.  The 
entrance  to  Pearl  River  is  very  narrow  and  shallow,  and  in  its 
present  state  it  is  fit  for  very  small  vessels  to  enter,  but  over  the 
bar  there  is  deep  water,  and  in  the  channel  leading  to  the  lochs 
there  are  from  7  to  20  fathoms.  The  lochs  themselves  are  rather 
shallow. 

The  coast  from  Hanarura  to  the  west  of  Pearl  River  pos- 
sesses no  variety  of  plants  beyond  two  or  three  species,  such  as 


30 

Argemones,  Portulacas,  and  a  few  other  little  annuals,  intermixed 
with  the  common  long  grass  so  plentiful  everywhere  on  the  coast 
round  the  island. 

OYSTERS 

The  oysters  that  are  found  in  Pearl  River  are  small  and  in- 
sipid and  of  no  value  or  consequence. 

RETURNS  BY  LAND 

May  18.  Got  up  at  4  a.m.,  after  a  restless  night,  having  been 
tormented  with  fleas.  Departed  with  my  man  Mantle,  leaving 
the  rest  yet  asleep.  But  after  travelling  about  three  miles,  the 
path  which  we  had  first  struck  terminated,  and  the  grass  became 
longer  and  more  difficult  to  travel  over.  At  last,  after  another 
three  miles,  we  got  so  entangled  with  creeping  plants  running  a 
little  above  the  ground  beneath  the  grass,  that  Mantle,  who  was 
stockingless,  shed  tears,  complaining  of  his  ankles,  and  refused  to 
go  on.  Being  yet  five  miles  from  the  woods,  and  not  having  suf- 
ficient provisions  for  two  days,  we  were  forced  to  return  to  the 
town  by  a  path  leading  through  taro  ponds,  some  distance  inland 
from  the  coast. 

On  the  path  we  had  left  near  the  Pearl  River,  we  saw  several 
thickly  inhabited  huts,  situated  on  the  side  of  a  ravine  stocked 
with  bananas,  taro  and  healthy  breadfruit  trees  just  forming  their 
fruit.  Here  we  met  with  an  old  Englishman,  who  told  us  there 
was  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  ravine  a  large  river  coming  out 
under  the  ground.  We  went  to  the  place  and  found  that  what  he 
had  told  us  was  correct,  and  stood  admiring  the  subterranean 
stream  of  fine,  cool  water.  Its  source  was  rapid,  forming  a  cas- 
cade nearly  20  feet  in  height,  having  ferns  and  mosses  on  its 
sides.  In  the  grounds  of  the  natives,  I  saw  plenty  of  the  awa 
plant  (piper)  mentioned  in  the  history  of  these  islands,  as  being 
destructive  to  the  health  of  the  natives  when  used  to  excess,  ow- 
ing to  its  intoxicating  qualities.  I  obtained  several  specimens 
of  it  in  flower. 

The  old  man  informed  me  that  he  had  been  on  the  island 
over  sixteen  years,  and  that  the  grounds  we  were  then  upon,  be- 
longed to  Boki,  and  had  been  in  his  charge  for  ten  years.  Upon 
Boki  going  to  England  with  the  king,  another  chief  had  turned 
him  away,  and  taken  all  his  little  ground  from  him,  so  that  he 
had  been  forced  to  live  on  the  charity  of  the  natives. 


31 

EWA  DISTRICT 

The  neighbourhood  of  the  Pearl  River  is  very  extensive,  ris- 
ing backwards  with  a  gentle  slope  towards  the  woods,  but  is  with- 
out cultivation,  except  round  the  outskirts  to  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  water.  The  country  is  divided  into  separate  farms  or 
allotments  belonging  to  the  chiefs,  and  enclosed  with  walls  from 
four  to  six  feet  high,  made  of  a  mixture  of  mud  and  stone.  The 
poorer  natives  live  on  these  farms,  also  a  few  ragged  foreigners 
who  have  a  hut  with  a  small  spot  of  ground  given  them,  for  which 
they  must  work  for  the  chiefs  a  certain  number  of  days  besides 
paying  an  annual  rent  in  dogs,  hogs,  goats,  poultry  and  tapa 
cloths,  which  they  have  to  carry  to  whatever  spot  their  master  is 
then  living  on  the  island.  On  the  least  neglect  to  perform  these 
demands,  they  are  turned  away  and  deprived  of  whatever  stock, 
etc.,  they  may  possess.  Such  is  the  present  despotic  or  absolute 
law  in  the  Sandwich  Islands.  This  is  corroborated  by  all  for- 
eigners met  with  at  different  times,  who,  on  our  arrival,  hoped 
that  Lord  Byron  would  render  them  their  little  property  more 
secure  in  future.  Unfortunately  they  must  wait  till  the  British 
Consul  helps  them,  as  we  have  no  authority  to  interfere  with  the 
laws  of  the  country. 

On  our  way  home  we  noticed  that  the  country  on  the  side 
towards  the  woods  still  remained  uncultivated,  also  towards  the 
sea  coast,  except  the  lower  ends  of  the  small  valleys  which  are 
cultivated  with  the  taro  in  ponds,  which  much  resemble  peat 
mosses  that  had  been  worked  and  afterwards  allowed  to  get  full 
of  stagnant  water.  There  is  no  convenient  road  to  travel  any- 
where on  the  island.  We  met  with  another  subterranean  river 
at  the  side  of  one  of  the  hollows,  larger  than  the  other,  but  of  no 
great  fall  after  its  appearance  from  underground. 

MOANALUA  HILL 

By  4  p.m.  we  gained  the  summit  of  a  high  hill,  thickly  cover- 
ed with  tufts  of  long  grass.  It  lies  within  three  miles  of  Hana- 
rura.  There  is  a  burying  ground  of  the  natives  at  the  top,  which 
was  formerly  where  the  chiefs  of  high  rank  had  a  morai.31  At 
the  bottom  towards  the  sea,  there  is  a  circular  salt  pond,32  nearly 
two  miles  in  circumference,  surrounded  by  low  conical  hills.  In 


Hawaiian  "heiau." 
32Rnown  as  Aliapaakai. 


32 

places  on  the  sides  of  a  valley  leading  to  the  pond  from  the  in- 
terior, are  several  huts  of  the  natives  with  taro  ponds  and  a  large 
grove  of  coco-nut  trees,  apparently  very  old  from  their  great 
height  and  mossy  appearance.  We  reached  town  about  six  o'clock 
having  travelled  twenty  miles  since  morning  without  much  success, 
being  too  near  the  coast  to  meet  with  a  variety  of  plants.  We 
learnt,  however,  a  good  deal  about  the  present  mode  of  life  of  the 
natives,  and  the  manner  in  which  they  continue  to  cultivate  their 
grounds,  differing  but  little,  if  any,  from  the  descriptions  given  by 
Capt.  Cook  and  others. 

May  19.  Fine.  Saw  to  my  specimens.  Lord  Byron  and 
the  surgeon  called  to  hear  particulars  of  my  journey  home  from 
Pearl  Kiver.  American  missionaries  called  and  invited  me  to 
return  the  visit.  Mantle  still  complained  of  his  feet,  but  will 
go  in  the  morning  to  the  woods  with  me.  Mr.  Bloxam  accom- 
panied me  to  the  woods,  but  by  8  a.m.  he  said  he  had  shot  enough 
birds  to  skin  and  would  go  home.  I  asked  him  to  shoot  a  few 
for  me,  as  he  had  enough  for  himself,  but  he  refused,  saying  all 
his  duplicates  were  for  Lord  Byron. 

CLIMBS  "TANTALUS"  MOUNTAIN 

As  we  advanced  to  the  wood,  we  met  with  a  multiplicity  of 
ferns,  many  of  them  different  from  those  I  had  seen  on  the  13th 
and  14th  in  Hanarura  valley.  By  12  o'clock  we  had  gained  the 
summit  of  the  highest  hill  fronting  the  bay,  and  it  rained  in  tor- 
rents. Here  I  took  the  temperature  of  the  air,  which  stood  at  69. 
This  bill  is  over  2000  feet  above  sea  level,  but  there  are  others 
byond  it  in  the  centre  of  the  island  of  much  greater  height.  Two 
miles  beyond  this  high  hill,  the  wood  became  difficult  to  pene- 
trate, and  being  so  wet,  we  set  out  homewards.  The  ferns  of  dif- 
ferent kinds  met  with  during  the  day  exceed  twelve.  We  met 
also  with  a  considerable  variety  of  plants,  among  which  were  a 
parasitical  species  of  metrosideros  with  large  scarlet  flowers  and' 
two  or  three  lobelias  with  handsome  flowers. 

LAND  SHELLS 

I  met  also  for  the  first  time  with  small  land  shells,  having  a 
variety  of  rich  striped  colours.  These  shells  were  found  chiefly 
on  the  leaves  of  the  wild  tapa  (Brousonettia)  of  which  there  are 
several  species  with  different  coloured  flowers.  At  the  huts  near 
the  wood,  we  saw  some  natives  eating  raw  sweet  potatoes,  just 


33 

taken  up  from,  the  ground  and  not  even  washed. 

Got  home  at  six  o'clock.  Lord  Byron  called  to  say  he  was 
riding  farther  on  towards  Diamond  Hill,  and  would  I  meet  him 
the  next  day  at  Pitt's  to  see  the  plants,  which  had  been  brought 
out  from  England,  properly  transplanted. 

EXPLORES  DIAMOND  HEAD  OR  HILL 

May  21.  Met  Lord  Byron,  according  to  promise,  at  Mr. 
Pitt's  to  transplant  the  fruit  trees  brought  from  England,  but 
when  I  got  there  found  he  had  not  come.  After  waiting  some 
time  I  went  to  his  house,  and  saw  Mr.  Charlton,  who  doubted  if 
anything  could  be  done  then,  as  Mr.  Pitt  and  the  other  chiefs 
were  then  asleep,  and  would  not  get  up  on  any  account  whatever. 
I  was  advised  not  to  wait  on  the  chance  of  finishing  the  planting, 
but  to  go,  as  I  had  intended,  to  Diamond  Hill.  So  Mantle  and  I 
set  off  and  were  joined  by  a  native  who  offered  himself  as  a  guide. 
By  6.30  we  had  gained  the  summit,  which  is  high  and  steep,  with- 
out anything  growing  on  it  but  tufts  of  dry  grass  in  loose  sand, 
which  came  up  very  easily  and  rendered  the  ascent  more  difficult. 
Diamond  Hill  forms  a  headland  near  the  sea,  about  three  miles 
from  Hanarura,  and  has  at  some  former  period  been  an  old  vol- 
canic crater,  now  extinct.  In  the  centre  is  a  level  flat,  two  acres 
in  size,  covered  with  longer  grass  than  the  external  declivity.  On 
the  inside  part  next  to  the  sea,  the  depth  is  upwards  of  500  feet, 
counting  from  the  narrow  ridge  round  the  top,  which  is  almost 
circular.  Some  parts  of  the  rocks  had  the  appearance  of  com- 
mon quartz ;  others  resembled  burnt  limestone,  turned  soft  and 
white. 

There  are  many  natives'  huts  along  the  coast  on  both  sides  of 
the  hill,  surrounded  by  banana  and  coco-put  trees.  Coco-nut  trees 
seldom  grow  far  from  the  coast.  Near  Hanarura  is  a  similar 
crater,  now  a  fort,  with  several  guns  placed  along  the  ridge.  A 
salute  was  fired'  from  this  fort  when  we  entered  the  harbour. 

On  our  way  home,  in  a  high  wind,  my  hat  was  blown  off, 
and  Mantle  went  down  the  cliff  to  retrieve  it.  It  was  nearly 
dark  and  he  called  out  to  myself  and  the  native  guide  not  to 
leave  him  behind.  Afterwards  he  told  me  that  in  picking  up  the 
hat,  he  had  picked  up  a  large  human  skull.  At  first  he  had  not 
noticed  what  he  had  picked  up  till  he  saw  the  hollow  part  of  the 
eyes,  and  had  called  out  in  fright  and'  thrown  the  skull  away.  On 
my  expostulating  he  said  he  could  get  plenty  more,  as  there  were 


34 

a  lot  there.  This  was  explained  to  me  by  the  American  I  had 
hired  as  cook  and  who  had  been  on  the  island  for  six  years,  by 
his  telling  me  that  in  former  times,  the  chiefs  used  to  take  their 
criminals  upon  the  top  of  Diamond  Hill  to  put  them  to  death  by 
throwing  them  over  the  precipice,  where  they  were  left  unburied 
in  the  hollow,  and  thus  Mantle  had  met  with  many  skulls. 

TAMAAHAMAHAA  ALIAS  "THE  DUKE  OF 
WELLINGTON" 

May  23.  At  4  p.m.,  the  Governor  of  Attooi  called  on  me. 
He  was  busy  quelling  the  insurrection  on  that  island  about  two 
months  before  our  arrival.  He  is  also  styled  the  Duke  of  Welling- 
ton, the  conqueror  of  Attooi.  He  is  a  young  man  of  about  25, 
stout  and  good  looking,  in  comparison  to  the  rest  of  his  country- 
men. He  was  brought  up  by  Boki,  who  was  in  England,  and  for- 
merly, until  made  a  governor  and  general,  went  under  the  name 
of  Tamaahamahaa.  I  placed  before  him  a  nearly  full  gin  case 
bottle  of  rum  and  a  tumbler,  which  he  finished  by  himself  in  less 
than  two  hours  time,  and  went  home  but  very  little  intoxicated.  I 
took  care,  however,  never  to  make  him  quite  as  free  with  my 
bottle  again. 

VISITS  MANOA  VALLEY 

May  24.  Went  to  the  woods  through  a  valley  near  Diamond 
Hill,  named  by  me  Wilkinson's,33  from  its  being  the  place  where 
the  unfortunate  man  lived  that  we  had  brought  out  from  England 
with  us  in  the  suite  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders  in  the  prospect  of 
improving  the  state  of  agriculture  here.  But  he  found  that  he 
had  to  do  with  ignorant,  unfeeling  masters,  who  instead  of  employ- 
ing him  to  improve  their  farms,  with  a  liberal  salary,  had  only 
given  him  some  waste  land  in  the  valley  to  cultivate  for  his  own, 
during  their  own  pleasure.  On  passing  through  his  land  I  found 
he  was  ill  in  a  tent,  having  no  hut  built  yet.  He  lay  on  a  mat- 
tress on  the  ground,  suffering  from  diarrhoea,  and  reduced  to  a 
skeleton,  and  looking  the  picture  of  death.  I  suggested  that  he 
should  apply  to  Lord  Byron  for  a  passage  home  with  us,  but  he 

"Wilkinson  is  credited  with  having  been  the  first  person  to  culti- 
vate coffee  in  the  Hawaiian  group.  The  first  plantation  was  started 
at  the  head  of  Manoa  valley,  Oahu,  with  seed  or  young  plants  obtained 
*t  St.  Catherines,  Brazil,  where  H.M.S.  Blonde  touched  on  the  way 
out  from  England.  Died  March,  1827,  before  reaping  the  reward  for 
his  labor. 


35 

said'  he  would  rather  die  where  he  was  than  return  to  England. 
His  land  was  near  the  head  of  the  valley  in  a  kind  of  amphi- 
theatre overhung  by  volcanic  ridges,  thickly  covered  with  candle 
nut  (aleurites)  and  other  trees,  that  occasion  much  rain  at  night. 
In  several  parts  of  this  valley,  I  met  with  great  quantities  of 
turmeric,  ginger,  awa,  and  one  specimen  of  canna,  growing  wild 
among  the  grass.  The  ginger  is  met  with  in  abundance  every- 
where on  coming  to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  woods,  but  after- 
wards it  disappears  on  getting  some  miles  further  on.  The  roots 
are  generally  bitter,  and  have  not  much  of  the  taste  of  cultivated 
ginger.  When  in  the  wood,  I  met  with  four  more  different,  species 
A  metrosideros,  and  several  other  plants  which  I  had  not  seen  be- 
fore. At  the  head  of  the  valley  at  the  side  of  a  small  river  which 
descends  from  the  mountains,  are  trees  of  the  Eugenia  malaccensis, 
forming  a  wood  by  themselves.  On  my  return  home  I  saw  hun- 
dreds of  the  natives  preparing  the  ground  near  where  I  lived,  for 
Mr.  Pitt,  in  order  to  be  planted  with  sweet  potatoes.  They  did 
this  by  pulling  up  the  grass  with  their  hands,  and  others  using  a. 
short  stick  to  loosen  the  ground.  They  have  as  yet  no  other  de- 
scription of  tools. 

TWO  OF  KAMEHAMEHA'S  WIDOWS  CALL  ON  MACKAE 

May  25.  Two  of  the  late  Tamahamaah's  queens  called  on 
their  way  to  bathe.  Both  of  their  majesties  on  coming  to  the 
door  in  a  cart  drawn  by  several  natives,  were  tilted  out  without 
ceremony,  like  so  much  rubbish,  being  unable  to  get  out  in  any 
other  way,  owing  to  their  enormous  size.  They  were  dressed  in 
Canton  crapes,  made  in  European  fashion,  with  coarse  straw  bon- 
nets and  old  slippers,  but  no  stockings. 

Mr.  Forder  to  amuse  them,  showed  the  drawings  of  plants, 
etc.,  that  he  had  made,  and  they  asked  to  be  given  them  all,  and 
when  refused,  they  asked  for  something  else.  They  are  very  cov- 
etous. When  they  went,  they  got  into  the  cart,  laid  hold  of  the 
front  part  standing  up  together  behind,  and  in  this  manner  the 
box  (cart)  was  raised  up  with  them  face  downwards,  and  their 
legs,  nearly  the  size  of  a  man's  body,  hanging  over  the  hind  part 
of  the  cart,  which  was  too  short  for  their  length. 

LOOKS  FOR  SA1STDAL  WOOD 

May  26.  Showers  of  rain.  Went  to  the  valley  above  Dia- 
mond Hill  looking  for  sanders  wood.  It  is  this  kind  of  wood 
which  has  bestowed  so  much  wealth  on  its  owner,  and  caused  the  \/ 


36 

neglect  of  cultivation  in  the  islands  since  its  discovery,  owing  to 
the  natives  being  taken  away  from,  their  homes  for  weeks  together 
to  procure  it. 

In  the  wood  at  the  head  of  this  valley,  I  met  with  many 
plants  not  seen  before,  particularly  ferns  and  metrosideros.  The 
latter  formed  the  greatest  number  of  the  largest  trees  I  had  seen, 
except  the  acacia  from  which  the  native  canoes  are  made.  The 
sanders  wood  I  met  with  grew  only  to  a  middling  sized  tree,  and 
was  too  early  in  the  season  for  flowering.  In  the  forest,  bananas 
grow  wild  to  a  great  size,  with  many  large  bunches  of  fruit  on 
them,  which  the  natives  with  me  cut  and  roasted.  One  which  I 
tasted  was  bitter,  but  by  no  means  unpalatable.  The  fruit  of  the 
wild  banana  is  the  chief  food  of  the  natives  when  they  are  in  the 
woods  collecting  sanders  wood  or  for  the  purpose  of  rough-hewing 
their  canoes  light  enough  to  enable  them  to  drag  them  to  the  sea 
shore.  This  latter  operation  often  takes  several  days. 

NATIVE  METHOD  OF  OBTAINING  FIRE 

Today  for  the  first  time  I  saw  the  natives  light  a  fire  to  roast 
their  bananas,  by  rubbing  two  dried  sticks  upon  each  other,  that 
catch  fire  by  friction,  after  rubbing  them  for  about  a  minute. 

May  27.  Fine,  but  showery.  Hearing  that  the  ship  would 
sail  in  a  few  days  for  Owyhee,  I  went  to  Lord  Byron  to  ascertain 
if  he  would  return  to  this  island  again  before  he  left  the  islands 
for  Otahite,  for  if  so,  I  must  have  all  my  plant  boxes  on  board. 
He  said  he  could  only  tell  he  was  leaving  in  a  few  days. 

JOHN  YOUNG  AND  ISAAC  DAVIS 

He  introduced  me  to  Mr.  Young.  His  name  along  with  that 
of  his  companion,  Mr.  Davis,  have  long  been  distinguished  in  the 
history  of  these  islands.  Mr.  Young  had  just  come  from  Owyhee. 
He  is  now  fast  sinking  under  the  infirmities  of  age.  Mr.  Davis  is 
dead  and  buried  in  the  Europeans'  burying  place  under  a  grove  of 
coco-nut  trees  near  where  I  live,  and  on  his  simple  monument  is 
engraved 

"The  remains  of  Mr.  Isaac  Davis, 

who  died  at  this  island 
April  1810,  aged  52  years." 

On  his  decease,  he  had  possessed  iiiany  lands  or  farms  in  the 
different  islands,  given  him  by  Tamahamaah  for  his  faithful  ser- 
vices, which  afterwards  became  the  property  of  his  wife  and 


JOHN   YOUNG 
("Olohana"— "All   hands.") 

The  friend  and  Companion-in-Arms  of  Kamehameha. 
Born  Lancashire,  England,    1742;  died  Honolulu,  December  17,  1835. 

Aged  93  years. 


37 

daughters,  but  some  have  lately  been  taken  from  them  by  some  of 
the  covetous  chiefs  now  in  power. 

MAGIC  LANTERN  SHOW  BANNED  BY  MISSIONARIES 

Lord  Byron  had  a  magic  lantern  show  at  the  king's  hut,  but 
owing  to  the  religious  fanaticism  of  the  American  Methodists,  the 
king  was  prevented  from  being  present.34  These  missionaries, 
many  of  them  being  but  illiterate  mechanics,  possess  what  power 
they  please  over  the  credulity  of  the  natives,  and  have  already  car- 
ried their  system  of  religion  too  far  to  be  upheld. 

PLANTS  BROUGHT  FROM  ENGLAND 

May  28.  Met  Mr.  Charlton  at  6  a.m.  at  Mr.  Pitt's  hut 
to  see,  transplanted,  the  plants  that  were  brought  out  from  Eng- 
land. I  found  the  natives  had  already  finished  planting  out  the 
tropical  plants,  among  which  I  had  several  Orchidacae  from  St. 
Catharines,  doing  very  well  in  their  box.  Although  my  Orchid- 
acae intended  for  Mr.  Lindley85  were  now  partly  destroyed,  my 
feelings  at  the  moment  were  nothing  compared  to  what  they  were 
when  I  saw  the  natives  tear  up  my  other  plants  by  the  stems,  as 
a  gardener  would  cabbage  stumps  for  the  dung  heap.  Mr.  Charl- 
ton was  not  present,  so  I  requested  Mr.  Pitt  to  stop  having  any- 
thing done  until  I  returned  with  the  Consul,  at  which  Mr.  Pitt 
only  laughed  at  my  eagerness. 

MARIN  (MANINI)  THE  SPANIARD 

When  I  returned,  I  found  that  self-conceited  Spaniard,  Marin, 
helping  to  pull  the  plants  by  the  stems,  and  continued  doing  so  in 
my  presence.  I  remonstrated,  but  Mr.  Charlton  drew  me  to  one 
side  and  said  "I  had  better  leave  the  fellow  to  himself  to  do  with 
the  plants  as  he  thought  proper,"  to  which  I  agreed,  on  condition 


regard  to  this  magic  lantern  incident,  the  missionaries'  side 
of  the  question  may  be  learned  by  consulting  the  following  works,  viz., 
"An  Examination  of  Charges  against  the  American  Missionaries  at 
the  Sandwich  Islands  as  alleged  in  the  Voyage  of  the  Ship  Blonde  and 
in  the  London  Quarterly  Review,"  Cambridge,  Mass.,  1827;  also  "A 
Defence  of  the  Missions  in  the  South  Sea  and  Sandwich  Islands,  etc.," 
by  William  Orme.  London,  1827. 

ssjohn  Lindley,  the  well  known  English  botanist  and  horticulturist, 
who  during  his  lifetime  was  the  mainspring  of  the  Horticultural  So- 
ciety of  London.  It  was  under  the  auspices  of  this  society  that 
Macrae  had  been  sent  out  in  charge  of  a  variety  of  plants  to  be  dis- 
tributed at  the  Sandwich  Islands. 


38 

that  Mr.  Charlton  would  explain  to  strangers  touching  here  that 
I  had  no  hand  in  the  transplanting.  I  then  took  up  my  St.  Cath- 
erines Orchidacae  and  replanted  them  in  the  box  from  which  they 
had  been  taken,  and  then  proceeded  to  make  a  list  of  what  plants 
had  been  introduced  alive,  but  found  the  natives  had  stolen  all  the 
leaden  numbers  attached  to  each  plant,  as  well  as  the  iron  hooks 
that  kept  the  lids  of  the  boxes  open  when  the  plants  required  air 
on  the  passage  from  England. 

ALEXANDER  ADAMS 

May  29.  Sunday.  Fine.  Went  with  our  purser  to  the 
house  of  the  harbour  pilot  (Mr.  Adams)  to  accompany  them  to  the 
other  side  of  the  island,  to  see  the  steep  cliffs  where  I  and  Mr.  A.B. 
had  difficulty  in  passing  on  the  13th.  Mr.  Adams  amused  us 
throughout  the  day  relating  curious  anecdotes  of  the  late  Tama- 
hamaah  and  his  queens,  particularly  about  Kaumanna.  Adams 
had  been  on  the  islands  since  1809,36  sometimes  conveying  sanders 
wood  to  China,  at  other  times  to  the  North- West  coasts  of  America 
with  cargoes  of  salt.  He  brought  home  a  couple  of  deer37  the 
last  time  with  a  view  of  their  thriving  in  the  islands,  but  they 

seit  was  owing  to  the  intercession  of  three  British  seamen,  viz., 
Alexander  Adams,  John  Young  and  Isaac  Davis,  who  had  been  trusted 
councillors  of  Kamehameha  I,  and  who  had  been  continued  in  the  same 
capacity  by  his  son  Liholiho,  that  the  first  contingent  of  American 
missionaries,  after  being  confined  on  board  the  Thaddeus  at  Kailua  in 
1820  for  two  weeks,  were  finally  allowed  by  Liholiho  and  his  council 
of  chiefs  to  land  and  settle  on  the  islands.  In  the  Sandwich  Islands 
Magazine  for  1856,  page  78,  Judge  Abraham  Fornander,  the  leading 
Hawaiian  historian,  gives  his  opinion  on  this  point  as  under,  viz., 
"Though  all  these  probably  had  an  influence  more  or  less  determin- 
ing the  decision  of  the  king  and  queen-regent,  yet  after  all  the  most 
direct  influence  that  decided  this  admission  of  the  missionaries  and 
their  permanent  residence,  was  the  intercession  of  a  few  Englishmen, 
long  resident  on  the  islands,  and  without  whose  names  any  account  o2 
the  first  period  of  Hawaiian  civilization  would  be  imperfect  and  un- 
intelligible. That  their  names  have  not  yet  had  honorable  mention 
in  this  connection  by  those  who  have  assumed  to  write  on  Hawaiian 
history,  is  one  of  the  sins  of  omission  which  we  would  charitably  over- 
look if  we  could.  Those  men  were  Young,  Davis  and  Adams.  The 
two  first  were  settled  here  before,  and  contributed  in  no  small  degree 
to  the  conquest  and  its  results;  the  latter  is  still  living  to  reap  that 
tribute  of  respect,  that  tardy  justice,  which  those  who  have  neglected 
to  render,  whom  he  and  the  others  assisted  in  their  hour  of  need  and 
cheered  in  their  moments  of  doubt." 

37Deer  were  not  the  only  kind  of  wild  animals  introduced  into 
Honolulu  during  the  reign  of  Liholiho.  In  1822,  that  monarch  dis- 
patched his  American-built  brig,  the  Sunbeam,  commanded  by  an  Eng- 


CAPTAIN  ALEXANDER  ADAMS, 
Designer  of  the  Hawaiian   Flag. 

Born  at  Arbroath,   Scotland,  December  27,   1780. 

Died  at  Honolulu,  October  27,  1871. 

Aged  91  years. 


39 

had  not  long  been  suffered  to  go  at  large  in  Hanarura  valley,  when 
Pitt  happening  to  be  unwell,  fancied  that  the  flesh  of  the  deer 
would  do  him  good,  and  one  of  them  was  killed  for  him  to  taste. 
This  he  found  so  much  to  his  liking  that  he  ordered  the  other  one 
to  be  killed,  thus  ending  the  life  of  poor  Adams'  deer. 

BATTLE  OF  NUUANU  VALLEY 

On  our  way  through  the  valley  of  Hanarura  or  Nuanu,  as  it 
is  often  called,  we  were  shown  the  spot  where  the  king  of  Woahoo's 
(Tereaboo)  head  general  was  killed  after  the  invasion  of  Tamaha- 
maah  from  Owhyee  to  conquer  the  island.  It  happened  as  fol- 
lows: When  Taniahamaah  with  Young  and  Davis  and  the  rest  of 
his  army  had  landed  from  their  small  fleet  in  the  harbour,  with- 
out opposition  from  Tereaboo,  they  found  that,  the  latter  had  col- 
lected his  forces  above  the  town  in  Hanarura  valley.  Taniaha- 
maah could  not  have  wished  for  a  better  situation  or  one  more 
favourable  to  his  purpose,  the  valley  being  overhung  by  ridges  on 
each  side,  which  were  left  unoccupied  by  the  enemy.  Tamaha- 
maah,  without  any  opposition  from  the  enemy,  placed  a  number 
of  his  men  on  the  side  ridges,  and  then  he  himself,  accompanied  by 
Young,  Davis  and  the  greater  part  of  his  army,  took  up  their 
position  in  the  center  of  the  valley.  They  had  with  them  only 
one  small  swivel  and  a  few  firearms,  the  rest  being  armed  with 
spears  and  clubs.  Mr.  Davis,  who  had  the  swivel,  somewhat  sing- 
ular to  relate,  killed  Tereaboo's  general  on  his  firing  the  first  shot, 
before  the  engagement  had  scarcely  begun.  When  this  happened, 
as  is  usual  with  these  natives,  they  instantly  got  into  confusion 
and  retreated.  Tamahamaah  pursued  them  up  the  valley,  and  on 
coming  to  the  precipice  they  threw  themselves  over  and  were 
found  in  the  thousands,  lifeless  at  the  bottom  of  the  cliff. 

lishman,  Captain  John  Bowles,  and  manned  by  Sandwich  Islanders,  to 
St.  Peter  and  St.  Pauls  (Petropaulovski),  Kamtschatka,  with  a  cargo 
of  salt  as  a  present  to  his  imperial  brother,  the  Czar  of  Russia.  In 
return  for  this  gift  on  the  part  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  king,  the  gov- 
ernor of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul's,  who  was  then  Captain  Ricord,  an 
Englishman,  gave  such  articles  as  seemed  most  desirable,  including 
some  animals,  with  a  view  of  propagating  the  breed.  Amongst  the 
animals  were  two  Siberian  bears,  but  what  became  of  them  when 
landed  at  Honolulu  is  now  forgotten.  Some  details  about  this  voyage 
of  the  Sunbeam  in  search  of  bears  will  be  found  in  Captain  John 
Dundas  Cochrane,  R.N.'s,  "Narrative  of  a  Pedestrian  Journey,"  etc. 
2nd  ed.  London  1824,  pp.  425-7,  and  an  amusing  sketch  called  "Ka- 
mehameha  II's  Bears,"  by  a  Russian  author,  V.  Poliakoff,  appeared  in 
Chambers'  Journal  for  1st  March,  1920. 


40 

Thus  did  Tamahamaah,  with  the  help  of  Young  and'  Davis, 
and  with  hardly  any  firearms,  easily  conquer  this  important  isl- 
and, which  may  now  be  considered  the  first  of  the  Sandwich  Isl- 
ands on  account  of  its  good  harbour.  The  king  of  Woahoo  fled 
to  the  mountains,  being  convinced,  that  the  custom  of  putting  the 
vanquished  to  death  would  be  practiced  upon  him.  "I  must  die," 
he  said  to  one  of  his  friends,  "for  I  will  not  let  Tamahamaah  en- 
joy this  triumph.  I  will  sacrifice  myself  to  the  gods."  His  corpse 
was  afterwards  found  in  a  cave  in  the  mountains/58 

I  managed  to  shoot  some  birds,  one  being  particularly  hand- 
some. Its  feathers  were  all  red,39  and  it  is  only  met  with  when 
sucking  the  red  blossoms  of  the  metrosideros. 

May  30.  Fine,  with  light  showers  of  rain.  Therm.  6  a.m., 
76;  12  noon,  86;  7  p.m.,  76. 

ALEXANDER  ADAMS  HELPS  MACRAE 

May  31.  Went  with  Mr.  Charlton  and  Mr.  Pitt  to  get  my 
empty  plant  boxes  taken  to  a  carpenter  to  be  repaired.  Pitt  pro- 
mised natives  to  help,  but  none  came,  so  in  despair,  I  went  to  Mr. 
Charlton  to  go  with  me  to  procure  assistance  for  which  I  was 
willing  to  pay  rather  than  waste  more  time.  However  we  met 
Mr.  Adams,  the  pilot,  who  kindly  borrowed  a  cart  and  got  his  own 
people  and  came  with  them  and  we  soon  got  the  whole  lot  of 
boxes  removed. 

The  plants  brought  from  England  had  remained  without  any 
shade  from  the  sun.  Through  the  neglect  of  these  people,  I  found 
only  one  grape  vine  with  any  leaves  on  it.  Plants  which  at  the 
expense  of  the  Horticultural  Society,  had  been  brought  15,000 
miles  by  sea  through  various  climates:  Marin,  the  Spaniard,  pre- 
viously mentioned,  has  had  a  grape  vine  since  1814,  which  he 


account  of  the  death  of  King  Kalanikupule  differs  from  that 
given  by  Fornander  in  the  Polynesian  Race  Vol.  II,  p.  348.  There  it 
is  stated  that  the  king  was  captured  in  the  mountains  of  Waipio, 
Oahu,  brought  to  Kamehameha  and  sacrificed  to  the  latter's  god  Kuka- 
ilimoku.  Probably  the  truth  is  that  Kalanikupule's  corpse  was  found 
in  a  cave  by  those  hunting  for  him,  and  brought  to  Honolulu,  where 
it  would  be  offered  up  as  an  offering  to  Kamehameha's  god. 

ssThe  liwi  (Vestiaria  coccinea)  or  the  apapane  (Himatione  san- 
guinea).  Native  birds  are  getting  very  scarce  on  Oahu  and  the  other 
islands  of  the  group.  About  1910,  or  so,  the  writer  noticed  on  two 
or  three  occasions,  an  iiwi  in  his  garden  situated  on  Prospect  Street, 
on  the  south  side  of  Punchbowl  Hill.  This  is  about  one-third  of 
a  mile  from  the  business  centre  of  Honolulu. 


41 

brought  from  California,  where  he  had  been  with  Adams  as  lin- 
guist, and  had  planted  in  his  own  ground  near  Hanarura,40  and 
got  the  king  to  perform  the  charm  of  taboo  to  prevent  any  being 
stolen.  This  taboo  still  continues  in  force  to  the  present  time, 
but  although  he  has  cultivated  the  vine  with  success  for  the  last 
two  years,  and  made  more  than  two  casks  of  wine  from  the 
fruit,  sooner  than  give  the  slips  to  his  neighbors,  he  has  burnt  the 
prunings  every  year. 

But  Mr.  Charlton  has  given  to  different  individuals,  several 
fine  grape  vines  which  he  brought  with  him  from  the  port  of  Val- 
paraiso, and  also  an  assortment  of  vegetable  seeds,  the  gift  of  the 
Horticultural  Society,  London.  Mr.  Charlton  intends  soon  to 
reside  with  his  family  at  Woahoo,  where  he  intends  to  grow  coffee 
and  cotton,  which  have  so  far  been  neglected.  In  such  a  favour- 
able climate,  they,  as  well  as  cocoa  and  sugar,  may  be  brought  to 
perfection. 

QUEEN  KAAHUMANU 

June  1.  Returning  from  the  town,  I  saw  Queen  Kaumana 
in  her  four-wheeled  cart  being  dragged  to  the  top  of  a  small  hill 
by  natives.  The  cart  was  afterwards  pushed  off  at  the  top  and 
allowed  to  roll  down  hill  by  itself,  with  her  in  it.  This  ludicrous 
sort  of  amusement  was  always  accompanied  with  much  shouting 
on  the  part  of  the  natives. 

June  2.  Queen  Kaumanna  and  Pio,41  with  several  female 
attendants,  called  in  their  carts.  They  were  very  inquisitive  to 
know  if  Mr.  Forder  and  I  were  married  men.  Being  told,  yes, 
they  wanted  to  know  the  number  in  our  families.  Mr.  Forder, 
who  kept  up  the  conversation,  said  he  had  six  and  I  none,  on 
which  they  said  I  could  only  have  one  wife.  After  a  few  more 
questions,  they  left  us  to  bathe,  as  usual,  in  the  fish  pond,  near 
here. 

A  little  before  dusk,  the  king  called  on  horseback,  accom- 
panied by  a  little  boy  brought  out  from  England  by  Boki.  His 
majesty  was  dressed  in  a  short  blue  jacket  and  pantaloons  to 
match,  but  without  hat,  waistcoat,  shoes  or  stockings.  Afterwards 
we  saw  his  sister,  the  young  princess,  carried  home  from  bathing 

*o At  Pauoa  Valley. 

4ipiia,  alias  Lydia  Namahana,  sister  of  Kaahumanu. 


42 

on  a  native  boy's  back,  some  distance  in  front  of  the  old  queens, 
who  Avere  dragged  in  the  carts. 

June  3.  The  ship  sails  for  Owhyee  on  the  7th,  so  I  am  in- 
structed to  have  my  traps  on  board  again  this  evening.  Packed  up 
my  specimens  and  got  everything  on  board  by  dusk. 

June  4.  Got  my  things  stowed  away  amidst  the  usual  noise 
of  a  man-o'-war.  At  5  p.m.,  one  of  the  gentlemen  hooked  a  shark 
alongside  which  measured  11  feet  in  length  and  five  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  when  cut  open,  in  its  stomach  were  found  a  large  hook 
and  chain  carried  away  the  day  before,  a  bullock's  foot,  part  of  a 
pig's  head,  and  many  bones  which  had  been  thrown  over  the  ship's 
side,  where  he  had  been  noticed  for  several  days  past.  The  Sand- 
wich people  who  were  going  with  us  to  Owhyee  sent  on  board  a 
quantity  of  luggage  and  provisions  for  their  passage. 

June  5.  Sunday.  Fine.  Church  service  on  board  as  usual 
at  10  a.m. 

June  6.  Went  on  shore.  In  the  town  saw  a  large  pig 
roasted  with  hot  stones  in  the  way  customary  with  the  South  Sea 
Islanders,  and  as  mentioned  by  Capt.  Cook  and  others. 

WOME]^  SUCKLE  PIGS  AND  DO&S 

Shortly  afterwards,  I  noticed  a  young  woman  walking  along 
the  street,  and  at  the  same  time  suckling  several  puppies  that  were 
wrapped  up  in  a  piece  of  tapa  cloth  hanging  round  her  shoulders 
and  breasts.  The  custom  of  suckling  dogs  and  pigs  is  common 
to  the  natives  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.  These  animals  are  held 
by  them  in  great  estimation,  little  inferior  to  their  own  offspring, 
and  my  journeys  to  the  woods  in  search  of  plants  often  afforded 
me  an  opportunity  of  being  an  eye  witness  to  this  habit.  I 
often  saw  them  feeding  the  young  pigs  and  dogs  with  the  poi  made 
from  the  taro  root,  in  the  same  way  as  a  mother  would  her  child. 

The  dogs  are  in  general  useless  for  anything  but  being  eaten, 
and  are  seldom  ever  heard  to  bark.  In  size  they  are  small,  with 
long  bodies  and  ears,  sharp  pricked  noses  and  short  feet.  They 
are  mostly  black  in  colour,  but  very  often  hairless  from  mange. 
In  this  state  the  natives  feed  them  and  preserve  their  offspring, 
which  they  carry  in  their  arms  oftener  than  they  do  their  own 
young.  In  passing  their  huts,  should  a  stranger  hurt  one  of 
their  dogs,  they  are  more  offended  than  if  one  of  their  own  child- 
ren had  been  attacked. 


BOKI   and  LILIHA 


From  drawing  by 
Sir  George  Hayter,  P.R.A. 


43 

MEETING  TO  CONSIDER  NEW  LAWS 

At  2  p.m.,  a  meeting  was  held  at  Pitt's  house,  of  Lord  Byron 
and  all  the  chiefs,  to  consider  fit  laws  to  be  established  throughout 
the  islands.  Boki  stood  up  for  half  an  hour  and  made  a  surpris- 
ing speech.  His  own  countrymen  were  so  astonished,  they  said 
it  must  be  someone  else  in  Boki's  skin.  He  compared  what  he 
had  seen  in  England  with  his  own  country,  and  strongly  recom- 
mended them  to  establish  laws  and  religion  -on  the  English  prin- 
ciples. He  wished  fires  to  be  allowed  in  their  houses  to  cook  on 
Sunday,  and  also  to  be  allowed  to  bathe  on  Sundays  as  in  Eng- 
land. After  discussion,  however,  it  was  resolved  that  the  former 
laws  of  Tamahamaah  should  be  again  put  in  force. 

MARINES  TOO  DRUNK  TO  DRILL 

At  3  p.m.,  the  marines  came  on  shore  to  go  through  move- 
ments for  Pitt's  gratification,  but  unfortunately  several  got  in- 
toxicated on  their  way  through  town  and  could  not  go  through  the 
affair  to  Lord  Byron's  disappointment,  for  most  of  the  royal  fam- 
ily and  the  chiefs  and  European  residents  were  present.42 

WILKINSON.       NOVARA'S  INN 

Wilkinson,  now  much  better,  was  there,  and  was  anxious  to 
get  Lord  Byron  to  obtain  a  promise  from  Pitt  that  the  land  given 
him  should  not  be  taken  from  him,  but  this  Pitt  and  the  chiefs 
will  not  promise,  only  saying  "He  could  have  it  until  the  ground 
may  be  wanted  by  themselves." 

I  stayed  the  night  in  the  inn  of  Novara,43  in  company  with 
the  assistant  surgeon. 

42History  repeats  itself,  'in  1825,  the  British  marines  apparently 
got  pretty  well  loaded  up  with  okolehao  (native  gin).  Nearly  a  cen- 
tury afterwards,  the  same  scene  was  being  enacted  in  Honolulu.  Ac- 
cording to  a  Honolulu  newspaper  of  April  4,  1921,  "Fifty-two  (U.S.) 
soldiers  were  brought  to  the  police  station,  Honolulu,  Saturday  night 
and  early  Sunday  morning.  This  establishes  a  record  for  a  single 
night's  arrest  of  soldiers.  They  were  brought  in  individually  and  in 
groups,  practically  all  being  under  the  influence  of  liquor,  according 
to  the  police."  This  happened  in  "dry"  America. 

*3Novara's  inn  was  situated  on  the  "mauka"  side  of  what  is  now 
called  Merchant  Street,  nearly  opposite  the  present  police  station. 
Joseph  Novara  died  at  Honolulu,  14th  February,  1839,  aged  72.  Was 
a  sailor  by  profession  ,and  had  lived  in  Honolulu  for  over  30  years. 


44 

QUEEN  KAAHUMANU,  JOHN  YOUNG  AND  CHIEFS 
SAIL  ON  THE  BLONDE 

June  7.  Lord  Byron  informed  me  I  need  not  send  my  empty 
plant  boxes  on  board,  as  he  intended  to  touch  here  again.  Queen 

Kaumanna  and  Pio,  with  Mr.  Young  and  several  chiefs  and  other 
natives  came  on  board  to  go  with  us  to  Heddo  Bay,  situate  on  the 
east  side  of  Owhyee. 

Took  leave  of  Mr.  Charlton,  with  hopes  of  seeing  him  again 
at  Otahite  on  our  way  home.  Oot  under  weigh  at  3  p.m.  Fresh 
breeze  from  E.N.E.  Among  the  queen's  attendants  was  an  old 
cunning  fellow,  "Jack  Bligh,"  native  of  Otahite,  who  spoke  a  little 
English,  and  had,  he  said,  been  with  Captain  Bligh  in  the  Bounty 
at  the  time  of  the  mutiny.  We  had  on  board  also  two  mission- 
aries and  "Sir  Joseph  Banks,"  interpreter  to  Lord  Byron. 

June  8.  Fine.  Fresh  breezes  from  the  N.E.  At  noon  the 
island  of  Mowee  in  sight.  Therm.  6  a.m.  76 ;  12  noon  75 ;  7  p.m. 
76. 

Uune  9.  Being  near  the  island  of  Mowee,  a  boat  was  sent  on 
shore  with  Joe  Banks,  to  procure  fish.  He  returned  with  a  quan- 
tity, fresh  and  salted,  which  the  natives  immediately  began  to  de- 
vour raw,  with  some  poi  and  taro,  not  even  wasting  their  gills  or 
entrails.  These  parts  are  considered  by  them  to  be  the  most  de- 
licate parts  of  the  fish,  and  were  what  was  generally  eaten  by  the 
queens  and  chiefs.  Among  others  doing  this  was  Manaware,44 
whom  we  had  brought  out  from  England.  When  I,  disgusted, 
expostulated  and  told  him  he  ought  to  have  shown  his  countrymen 
how  he  had  seen  us  eat  our  meals,  he  replied,  somewhat  offended, 
that  he  and  his  countrymen  liked  fish  in  that  way  best,  adding 
that  "He  saw  plenty  of  poor  people  in  England,  but  we  see  none 
here;  that  they  got  plenty  of  poi,  taro  and  fish  and  no  want  for 
anything  like  many  a  man  at  home."  Such  was  the  answer  of  a 
person  who  had  been  in  England  with  their  king,  and  who,  on  the 
passage  back  to  their  own  country,  had  been  fed  by  Lord  Byron  in 
a  style  not  inferior  to  what  he  usually  did  himself. 

June  10.  7  a.m.  Saw  Mouna  Kaah  far  above  the  clouds, 
in  places  covered  with  snow.  Fine  appearance.  Light  rain  after 
dark. 

*4Mamiia. 


45 

June  11.  Fine  strong  E.  breezes.  Mouna  Koa,  with  its  round 
flat  top  in  sight,  bearing  South,  and  Mouna  Kaah  N.E.,  as  also 
the  high  land  of  Mowee  about  N.  During  the  day,  several  show- 
ers, fresh  breezes  and  cloudy  at  7  p.m. 

AKRIVES  AT  HILO.      PREPARES  FOR  ASCENT  OF 
MAUNA  KEA. 

June  12.  Sunday.  Strong  E.N.E.  breezes  and  cloudy.  At 
10  a.m.,  church  service,  the  queens,  chiefs  and  missionaries  pre- 
sent. Shortened  sail  and  came  to  anchor  in  6  fathoms.  I  got 
Lord  Byron  to  gain  Queen  Kaumanna's  consent  for  me  to  have  7 
or  8  natives  to  accompany  me  to  Mouna  Kaah.  After  her  usual 
"hesitation  to  consider,"  she  said  I  might  have  as  many  as  I 
wanted.  I  also  asked  her  for  a  hut  on  shore  to  which  to  remove 
my  traps  tomorrow,  where  Mr.  Forder  will  live  till  I  return  and 
where  he  can  dry  what  plants  I  may  find  necessary  to  send  home 
while  on  my  journey.  She  desired  that  I  should  be  informed 
that  she  did  not  know  of  a  hut,  but  when  she  went  on  shore  she 
would  enquire  of  the  chiefs. 

REV.  MR.  GOODRICH,  MISSIONARY 

June  13.  Went  on  shore  to  find  the  huts  of  the  only  two 
foreigners  at  this  place,  besides  the  missionaries,  to  procure  one 
of  these  men  as  a  guide  to  Mouna  Kaah.  I  met  Mr.  Goodrich, 
one  of  the  missionaries  from  Woahoo,  who  told  me  that  both  of 
the  persons  of  whom  I  was  in  search  had  left  the  place  a  fort- 
night ago,  to  kill  wild  cattle  near  Mouna  Kaah,  and  would  pro- 
bably not  return  for  some  weeks.  He  said  that  rather  than  I 
should  be  disappointed,  he  would  willingly  accompany  me.  Hi* 
kind  offer  I  accepted. 

It  was  thought  best  to  go  the  first  part  of  the  journey  by 
canoe,  and  so  save  30  miles  of  travel  over  many  deep  ravines  and 
large  rivers.  We  might  return  by  land  if  we  wished.  For  this 
water  plan  we  had  again  to  apply,  through  Lord  Byron,  to  Queen 
Kaumanna  for  a  canoe  and  also  extra  natives  to  man  it.  This 
Lord  Byron,  in  his  usual  pleasant  manner,  promised  to  do  when  he 
found  her  (Queen  Kaumanna)  in  such  humour  as  likely  not  to 
refuse  him,  she  at  present  being  rather  sulky  from  accounts  re- 
ceived of  some  persons  on  shore  having  acted  wrongly  in  her  ab- 
sence. 

Lord  Byron  gave  Mr.  Talbot,  fourth  lieutenant,  and  Mr.  Wil- 


46 

son,  purser,  permission  to  accompany  me  on  my  journey,  and  also 
acquainted  me  that  Queen  Kaumanna  had  promised  me  the  canoe 
and  natives  for  the  next  day.  At  noon  I  went  on  shore  to  choose 
a  suitable  hut,  and  met  Mr.  'Goodrich,  who  went  with  me  to  look 
at  the  huts  round  the  bay,  all  pleasantly  situated  under  the  shade 
of  breadfruit  trees,  which  in  places  form  woods  by  themselves,  and 
grow  to  a  great  height,  producing  plenty  of  fruit,  although  they 
possess  but  little  variety  and  are  generally  of  the  small  kind. 
There  are  here  also  plenty  of  both  kinds  of  rose  apple  and  coco- 
nut trees,  some  of  the  latter  being  of  great  height  and  age. 

Heddo  Bay  and  its  neighbourhood  are  very  pleasant  on  ac- 
count of  its  woody  appearance  and  plentiful  supply  of  water,  and 
is  far  superior  in  scenery  to  any  spot  we  had  seen  either  at  Mowee 
or  Woahoo,  but  like  these  is  little  cultivated,  and  only  round  about 
the  native  huts  with  patches  of  bananas,  taro,  tapa  plants,  etc. 
At  the  west  end  of  the  bay  is  a  fair  sized  river  with  several  water- 
falls, convenient  for  watering  ships,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  bay 
is  another  subterranean  one,  which  is  dammed  up  a  little  distance 
from  the  sea  and  forms  a  large  fresh  water  fish  pond,  tabooed 
for  the  use  of  the  king  and  the  chiefs.  Toward  the  east  end,  not 
far  from  the  shore  and  near  a  reef  which  runs  partly  across  the 
bay,  there  is  a  small  island  thickly  covered  with  low  coco-nut  trees, 
from  which  circumstance  it  is  called  Coco-nut  Island. 

The  whole  of  the  E.  side  of  Owhyee,  which  is  divided  into 
two  districts,  belongs  to  Kaumanna  and  Pio.  When  at  Heddo, 
their  place  of  residence  to  receive  the  rents,  is  near  the  east  side 
of  the  bay,  and  consists  of  no  more  than  two  huts,  one  of  which  is 
given  to  Lord  Byron  as  a  residence  while  here. 

Returning  on  board,  I  heard  that  the  canoe  and  natives  would 
not  be  ready  until  tomorrow.  Mr.  Young  this  evening  gave  me 
some  account  of  Mr.  Menzies'  journey  to  Mouna  Roah,45  next 
highest  to  Mouna  Keah  to  which  I  am  going.  During  the  26 
years  that  Mr.  Young  has  been  on  the  island,  he  has  never  seen 
Mouna  Kaah  free  from  snow,  but  has  not  seen  snow  on  Mouna 
Roah  in  summer,  and  on  this  he  bases  his  theory  of  the  greater 
height  of  Mouna  Kaah. 

^Archibald  Menzies,  a  Scottish  surgeon  and  naturalist,  was  the 
first  white  man  to  ascend  to  the  top  of  Hualalai  and  the  first  white 
man  and  probably  the  first  human  being  to  reach  the  summit  oT 
Mauna  Loa.  For  an  account  of  his  trips  up  these  mountains,  see 
"Hawaii  Nei  128  Years  ago,"  Honolulu  1920. 


47 

June  14.  Went  on  shore  with  my  traps,  taking  Mantle  and 
another  lad  Trounce  with  me.  They  both  belonged  to  the  ship, 
and  are  allowed  to  me  as  long  as  I  need  them.  I  found  that 
the  hut  promised  me  by  Manaware  was  now  refused,  and  only 
part  of  another  offered,  at  the  other  side  of  the  bay,  and  inhab- 
ited by  a  chief.  My  traps  and  provisions  now  being  landed  on 
the  beach  and  surrounded  by  crowds  of  natives  who  would  not 
have  hesitated  to  make  free  with  what  they  could  lay  hold  of,  I 
begged  to  be  allowed  to  put  them  in  a  corner  of  his  Lordship's 
house.  Lord  Byron  told  me  it  would  make  no  difference  to  him 
leaving  any  of  my  things  there  if  I  liked  till  I  returned,  but  if  I 
wanted  a  place  for  them  and  Mr.  Forder,  I  could  have  the  tent 
put  up  near  his  hut  for  his  servants,  and  this  I  accepted. 

I  went  with  some  of  the  missionaries  to  Queen  Kaumanna's 
hut  to  ask  her  whether  I  could  depend  upon  the  canoe  for  tomor- 
row. I  found  her,  as  usual,  lying  on  the  floor  with  her  face 
downwards,  and  several  natives  round  her  brushing  the  flies  away 
from  her  body.  She  hesitated  in  giving  an  answer  until  she  had 
surveyed  me  from  head  to  foot,  and  then  said  when  she  saw  one 
of  the  chiefs,  she  would  let  me  know.  So  I  got  Mr.  Young,  who 
had  more  influence  with  her  than  the  missionaries,  to  tell  her  I 
would  pay  what  money  she  wanted.  This  offer  had  the  desired 
effect,  for  she  instantly  sent  across  the  bay  to  the  head  chief,  and 
when  he  came  it  was  settled  at  once  that  I  should  have  the  canoe 
and  natives  without  paying  at  all.  I  sent  word  to  Talbot  and 
Wilson  to  have  everything  ready  on  board  for  the  morrow's  start 
when  I  came  alongside  in  the  canoe.  I  dined  at  4  p.m.  with  Lord 
Byron,  the  surgeon,  chaplain  and  painter,  who  are  his  usual  com- 
panions while  on  shore.  Mr.  Forder  joined  me  at  sunset,  and  we 
took  up  our  abode  in  Lord  Byron's  servants'  tent. 

START  FOR  MATOA  KEA 

June  15.  Fine  day  after  a  showery  night  during  which  the 
rain  poured  through  the  old  tent.  Mr.  Goodrich  arrived  at  day- 
light with  the  double  canoe  and  natives,  and  we  immediately  be- 
gan to  embark  our  provisions,  etc.,  for  our  journey.  It  was  6 
o'clock,  however,  before  we  got  alongside  the  ship,  for  Messrs. 
Talbot  and  Wilson,  who  were  ready  waiting  for  us.  There  were 
now  17  on  board  the  canoe,  eleven  natives  and  six  of  ourselves. 
We  started  with  the  well  wishes  of  all  on  board  the  Blonde  for 


48 

our  journey  of  30  miles  to  Lapahoi46  on  the  W.  side  of  the  island. 
Favourable  light  east  breezes,  which  freshened  every  hour  un- 
til we  landed  in  a  narrow  creek  at  11  o'clock  a.m.  The  creek  was 
full  of  rocks,  and  open  to  a  high  surf  that  is  generally  found  on 
this  coast,  and  which  at  all  times,  except  early  in  the  morning, 
makes  landing  very  difficult  and  dangerous,  as  we  ourselves  ex- 
perienced. We  had  the  greatest  difficulty  to  prevent  our  canoe 
from  being  dashed  on  shore,  owing  to  the  surf  washing  over  us 
every  minute  and  filling  the  canoe  with  water  so  fast  as  to  render 
our  efforts  in  baling  it  out  useless.  We  got  into  dry  clothes  as 
far  as  possible  and  dried  our  firearms,  and  then  found  that  the 
40  Ibs.  of  salt  meat  which  I  had  for  my  share  of  the  provisions 
was  missing,  but  nothing  else. 

LAUPAHOEHOE 

Lapahoi  is  a  small  stony  flat  with  a  few  huts  and  sweet 
potatoes  and  taro  patches  scattered  over  it.  It  lies  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  a  deep  ravine,  the  declivities  on  either  side  nearly  500 
feet  in  height  and  extending  to  the  sea  beach,  terminating  in  a 
rocky  precipice.  The  coast  all  the  way  to  Lapahoi  was  inter- 
sected by  many  deep  ravines,  many  of  which  had  large  rivers 
forming  beautiful  waterfalls  that  fell  over  the  outward  cliffs  into 
the  ocean,  the  angry  surf  of  which  broke  a  long  way  up  upon  the 
rocks  underneath. 

On  the  upper  part  of  the  inclines  a  species  of  pandanus  grew 
plentifully.  It  is  commonly  used  by  the  natives  for  making  mats 
for  the  floors  of  their  huts.  It  forms  thick  plantations  here, 
giving  the  coast  a  pleasant  appearance  with  their  green  bushy  tops 
hanging  pendant  over  the  rocks  where  underneath  in  many  places 
small  subterranean  streams  fall  down  at  no  great  distance  from 
each  other.  This  species  of  pandanus  is  nowhere  so  plentiful  in 
the  Sandwich  Islands  as  on  the  island  of  Owhyee.  It  is  culti- 
vated elsewhere  frequently  for  its  leaves  for  mats  and  pillows  for 
the  natives.  The  tea  tree  is  also  plentiful  here  in  the  valleys 
along  the  coast. 

CLIMBING  MAUN  A  KEA 

By  noon  we  had  finished  taking  some  refreshments  and 
dividing  our  baggage  into  loads  for  the  natives  to  carry.  We 

4«Laupahoehoe. 


49 

proceeded  on  our  journey,  leaving  behind  us  six  natives  with  orders 
to  remain  four  days  with  the  canoe  in  case  we  might  return  in 
that  time  and  select  to  go  home  by  water.  The  other  five  we  took 
with  us,  making  with  ourselves  eleven.  On  the  summit  above 
Lapahoi,  we  stopped  to  draw  breath,  and  then  every  step  became 
more -interesting  as  we  followed  the  narrow  path  to  the  wood's 
above,  which  were  yet  four  miles  away.  As  we  went  along,  the  few 
native  huts  on  either  side  were  fast  disappearing.  The  whole  face 
of  the  country  from  the  coast  to  six  miles  inland  produced  various 
fine  prospects  which  reminded  us  of  home,  and  if  only  cultivated, 
would  produce  an  equal  return  of  crops  to  any  land  of  similar 
climate.  But  it  is  not  even  pastured  by  live  stock,  being  cov- 
ered with  long  grass  and  short  stumpy  tree  ferns  belonging  to  the 
Cyathea  tribe,  whose  roots  afford  food  for  the  swine  about  the 
huts  of  the  natives. 

These  same  huts  are  often  inhabited  by  four  generations,, 
huddled  together  at  night  time  like  so  many  dumb  animals,  and 
often  without  sufficient  shelter  over  them  to  protect  them  from 
the  cold  heavy  dews  that  invariably  fall  here  at  night.  We  reached 
the  outskirts  of  the  woods  between  three  and  four  in  the  after- 
noon, having  on  our  way  crossed  three  narrow  deep  ravines,, 
thickly  covered  with  wood,  mostly  metrosideros,  aleurites,  and  a 
species  of  rhus,  but  without  water  except  during  heavy  rains. 

Our  guide  (Mr.  Goodrich)  recommended  us  to  take  up  our 
quarters  in  these  huts  for  the  night,  as  these  were  the  last  inhab- 
ited ones  on  our  way  to  the  mountain  where  we  had  any  chance  to 
procure  food  to  eat  now  and  also  to  take  with  us,  which  on  ac- 
count of  our  loss  011  landing  in  the  surf,  we  should  now  need. 
When  about  to  enter  the  largest  of  the  huts  to  prospect  its  con- 
dition, Mr.  Goodrich  was  accosted  by  a  smiling  young  woman,  the 
wife  of  one  of  those  Europeans  who  had  come  to  kill  wild  cattle. 
She  informed  us  that  she  had  only  left  the  Europeans  yesterday 
morning,  and  that  they  had  shot  two  bullocks  the  day  before.  We 
went  and  took  possession  of  the  cleanest  part  of  the  hut  for  our 
accommodation,  without  leave,  as  is  customary  with  these  people 
themselves,  while  Mr.  Ooodrich  went  in  search  of  a  young  pig  or 
fowls.  All  that  he  could  procure,  in  spite  of  offering  money  and 
looking  glasses,  were  a  couple  of  fowls,  owing  to  the  price  put  up- 
on their  pigs,  being  nearly  treble  their  worth. 

Mr.  Wilson  was  found  in  the  midst  of  a  crowd  of  natives, 
highly  amused  and  viewing  them  with  surprise.  I  went  to  the 


50 

wood,  while  supper  was  being  prepared,  to  look  for  plants,  and 
found  several  species  of  ferns  not  seen  before,  and  a  few  plants. 
I  only  got  as  far  as  the  outskirts  of  the  wood  and  the  trees,  which 
were  of  moderate  size,  consisted  mostly  of  raetrosideros  and  alenr- 
ites,  with  many  ferns  growing  beneath  their  shade.  In  addition 
to  the  different  species  of  metrosideros  in  variety  of  colours  of  the 
flowers  as  well  as  foliage  already  met  with  at  Woahoo,  there  still 
appears  in  this  island  many  which  will  add  to  their  number,  one 
particularly  with  straw-coloured  flowers  and  white  underneath 
the  leaves,  met  with  this  evening,  although  sparingly,  adds  to  my 
former  collection. 

When  I  got  back,  I  found  my  three  fellow  travellers  sitting 
on  a  mat,  each  holding  a  piece  of  fowl  in  one  hand  a  clasp  knife 
in  the  other,  busy  eating  in  the  presence  of  a  number  of  natives, 
some  of  whom  had  in  their  hands  a  light  made  from  the  kernels 
of  the  kukui  or  candle  nut  tree  (aleurites)  several  nuts  being 
passed  through  on  a  splinter  of  bamboo  cane  which  gave  a  greater 
light  than  two  or  three  common  sized  candles. 

At  9  p.m.  we  retired  to  rest  in  a  corner  of  the  hut  on  a  clean 
mat  brought  with  us  for  the  purpose,  the  rest  of  the  hut  being 
filled  with  the  usual  medley  of  men,  women,  children  and  dogs. 

June  16.  Fine  but  somewhat  foggy.  Got  up  at  daylight, 
took  the  temperature  of  the  air,  which  stood  at  64.  We  were  all 
ready  to  start  at  5  a.m.  in  spite  of  the  heavy  dew  which  was  still 
on  the  grass  and  bushes,  and  we  were  soon  wet  through  by  it  up 
to  our  knees.  We  entered  the  wood  about  a  mile  from  the  edge 
of  a  small  ravine,  by  a  narrow  path,  where  on  either  side  grew  a 
number  of  strong,  healthy  banana  trees  without  cultivation  and 
many  of  them  having  large  bunches  of  fruit. 

JOHN  YOUNG  AND  ISAAC  DA  VIS'S  FIRST  BATTLE 

Mr.  Goodrich  informed  us  that  it  was  at  this  ravine  that  Mr. 
Young  and  Mr.  Davis  had  fought  their  first  battle  in  the  service 
of  Tamahamaah  and  defeated  upwards  of  10,000  of  the  enemy 
with  only  300  on  their  own  side,  before  their  leader  came  up  to 
their  assistance  with  the  main  body  of  the  army.  The  descrip- 
tion related  to  us  of  this  engagement  was  that  when  King  Tama- 
hamaah had  conquered  the  south  side  of  Owhyee,  he  soon  after, 
with  his  army,  marched  round  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  island 
by  the  east,  taking  with  him  Young  and  Davis  for  the  first  time, 


51 

to  whom  he  gave  command  of  the  chief  part  of  his  army.  The 
chief  of  the  Heddo  part  of  the  island  was  prepared  to  meet  Ta- 
niahamaah  in  order  to  defend  his  proportion  of  the  island  from 
being  subjected  to  the  other's  power,  but  on  seeing  the  superior 
force  of  Tamahamaah,  this  chief  kept  retreating  to  the  west  till 
overtaken  by  Young  and  Davis,  who  were  nearly  a  day's  journey 
in  advance  of  the  main  body  of  the  army.  The  attack  took  place 
early  in  the  afternoon  from  the  opposite  sides  of  the  ravine  in 
the  wood,  when  after  several  hours  engagement,  it  was  decided  in 
favor  of  Young  and  Davis,  who  alone  had  firearms.  These  two 
killed  the  enemy  in  vast  numbers  from  the  crowded  manner  in 
which  they  stood  to  oppose  them,  being  unacquainted  with  the  de- 
structive effects  of  firearms. 

This  battle  gave  Tamahamaah  the  conquest  of  Owhyee. 

We  halted  at  9  a.m.  for  refreshment,  having  travelled  four 
miles  through  the  wood,  and  I  had  the  opportunity  to  ramble  a 
little  out  of  the  path  while  the  others  rested.  The  trees  now  be- 
came more  lofty,  particularly  a  species  of  acacia  used  by  the  nat- 
ives for  canoes.  Ferns  of  all  kinds  and  sizes  covered  the  ground 
beneath  the  trees,  and  a  good  many  grew  as  parasites  on  the 
tree  trunks.  A  noble  species  of  Cyathea,  equally  numerous  with 
the  rest,  often  attained  the  height  of  25  feet.  Metrosideros  with 
red  bunchy  flowering  tops,  covered  with  many  red  birds  sucking 
their  blossoms,  were  here  much  larger  and  taller  than  any  seen  on 
Woahoo.  Besterias  of  various  coloured  flowers,  and  some  of  a 
climbing  nature,  and  a  numerous  tribe  of  Psychotrias,  both 
shrubby  and  succulent,  as  also  many  lobelias  and  other  plants, 
aided  by  their  variety  to  enliven  our  journey  in  spite  of  the  many 
difficulties  encountered  from  trees  fallen  across  the  path  every 
other  short  distance,  that  had  to  be  scrambled  over.  The  path 
being  slippery  from  the  night  rains  occasioned  many  falls. 

WILD  RASPBERRIES  AND  STRAWBERRIES 
PLENTIFUL 

After  travelling  another  nine  miles,  we  halted  to  fill  our  cala- 
bashes, this  being  the  last  place  where  we  could  obtain  water  till 
our  return  from  Mouna  Kaah.  Here  again,  I  took  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  air.  It  had  risen  to  69.  Towards  the  end  of  the  wood 
the  path  became  steeper.  Here  we  found  raspberries  and  straw- 
berries of  various  kinds  covered  with  fruit  which  we  all  ate  eag- 
erly to  quench  our  thirst.  The  raspberries  were  very  large  and 


52 

flat  at  both  ends,  but  round  in  the  middle  and  not  unpleasant  in 
flavour.  The  strawberries  were  small  and  great  quantities  of 
fruit  grew  around  us  on  every  side  and  looked  like  a  neglected 
garden. 

BULLOCK  HUNTERS 

We  reached  the  end  of  the  wood  by  1  p.m.,  having  travelled 
twelve  miles,  and  above  12,000  feet  above  sea  level.  Here  we  found 
the  two  Europeans'  temporary  hut.  They  had  been  killing  some 
of  the  wild  cattle  that  had  originally  been  introduced  by  Capt. 
Vancouver  from  the  JsT.W.  Coast  of  America  and  since  suffered 
to  remain  unmolested  for  over  20  years.  Since  the  death  of 
King  Tamahamaah  the  government  has  killed  and  salted  many 
of  the  cattle  for  the  supply  of  its  small  fleet.  In  the  hut  we  found 
both  the  Europeans  at  home,  asleep,  and  dressed  in  the  costume 
of  the  country.  There  were  also  twenty  natives,  men,  women  and 
children  outside,  some  asleep  and'  others  roasting  pieces  of  flesh 
on  a  stick  stuck  in  the  ground  slanting  over  the  fire.  Both  the 
white  men  were  well  known  to  our  guide,  and  being  told  of  the 
object  of  our  visit,  offered  to  supply  us  with  what  beef  we  wanted. 
While  the  natives  were  cooking  food  for  us  we  learned  from  these 
two  half-naked  foreigners,  who  could  speak  but  little  English, 
although  one  was  a  Welshman  and  the  other  a  Prussian  black- 
smith, and  both  for  some  time  had  been  in  the  English  navy, 
that  they  had  succeeded  in  shooting  several  cattle,  but  with  some 
difficulty,  for  the  cattle  often  in  droves  of  twenty  were  always 
sensible  of  any  person  approaching  them.  If  unsuccessful  in 
killing  them  with  the  first  shot,  it  was  absolutely  necessary  to 
have  a  place  of  retreat  for  their  own  safety,  as  they  invariably 
pursued  their  destroyers  with  a  kind  of  furious  madness  while 
they  appear  in  sight. 

Two  days  before,  they  had  killed  an  old  black  bull,  which 
they  thought  was  one  of  the  original  number  brought  from  Cali- 
fornia by  Vancouver,  from  part  of  the  right  ear  being  cut  off  for 
a  mark.  They  had  been  told  that  this  had  been  put  upon  the 
cattle  when  landed  thirty  years  ago.  They  have  now  increased 
to  some  hundreds,  but  it  is  curious  that  they  have  never  been 
seen  more  than  a  few  miles  downwards  in  the  wood  from  the 
mountain,  and  then  only  in  warm  weather  for  the  sake  of  shade 
and  water.  Neither  has  a  young  one  ever  been  got  hold  of  and 


53 

domesticated,  although  often  attempted,  for  the  mother  living  with 
her  young,  always  seeks  some  retired  place  till  the  young  ones  are 
old  enough  to  protect  themselves. 

I  placed  all  the  specimens  I  had  collected  since  the  com- 
mencement of  our  journey,  in  paper  to  he  left  till  my  return,  and 
then  went  into  the  wood  to  look  for  more.  Took  the  temperature 
of  the  air  at  3  p.m.,  and  found  it  was  at  69,  being  the  same  as  at 
10  a.m.  coming  through  the  wood.  Our  guide  told  us  we  must 
travel  at  least  6  miles  further  towards  the  mountain  to  he  able 
to  gain  the  summit  at  an  early  hour  tomorrow,  before  the  horizon 
rose  to  prevent  us  from  seeing  the  ship  at  anchor  in  the  harbour. 
So  waking  my  sleeping  companions,  we  started  on  our  next  stage. 
However,  a  native  unfortunately  dropped  a  calabash  of  strong 
brandy  and  water  (two  gallons)  being  the  last  of  my  share  of 
the  spirits  brought  on  the  journey.  We  had  scarcely  travelled 
three  miles  when  a  thick  fog  commenced  to  roll  in  over  the  coun- 
try which  was  covered  with  tufts  of  dry  grass  and  full  of  cattle 
tracks.  The  soil  was  chiefly  composed  of  sandy,  pulverized  lava, 
with  numerous  beds  of  strawberries  growing  on  same.  Rasp- 
berries grew  in  great  abundance  by  the  sides  of  the  small  ravines 
made  by  the  torrents  of  water  from  the  melted  snow  running  here 
at  certain  seasons.  They  were  of  a  better  flavour  than  those  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  wood,  being  here  more  exposed  to  the  sun. 

By  6  p.m.  we  had  travelled  another  two  miles,  when  the  fog 
became  so  thick  that  we  were  scarcely  able  to  see  ten  yards  ahead 
of  us,  and  we  were  drenched  and  shivering  with  cold  and  almost 
beyond  any  vegetation  to  shelter  us  for  the  night.  So  we  cut 
down  boughs  of  Acacia  and  a  species  of  Sophora  and  erected  a  hut. 
This  we  accomplished  in  little  more  than  half  an  hour,  and  get- 
ting plenty  of  firewood  kept  a  fire  burning  all  night  near  where 
we  lay.  I  rambled  about  till  dark  among  cranberry  bushes  cut- 
ting specimens.  The  temperature  at  7  p.m.  was  52. 

TOO  GOLD  FOR  NATIVES 

Got  up  at  2  a.m.,  started  at  3  and  began  our  journey  to  the 
mountains  leaving  the  natives  behind,  who  feared  the  cold  and 
did  not  want  to  accompany  us.  At  5  a.m.,  daylight  began  to  ap- 
pear and  by  then  we  had  travelled  three  miles  over  sandy  pulver- 
ized lava,  sinking  over  our  ankles  at  every  step. 


54 

THE  SILVER  SWORD  PLANT 

The  last  mile  was  destitute  of  vegetation  except  one  plant  of 
the  Syginesia  tribe,  in  growth  much  like  a  Yucca,  with  sharp 
pointed  silver  coloured  leaves  and  green  upright  spike  of  three  or 
four  feet  producing  pendulous  branches  with  brown  flowers,  truly 
superb,  and  almost  worth  the  journey  of  coming  here  to  see  it  on 
purpose.47  The  majestic  clouds  rising  on  the  horizon  at  day- 
break encircled  us  all  round  like  an  immense  wall  with  towers  of 
various  forms  and  sizes  on  their  tops.  They  lay  at  unequal  dis- 
tances along  the  horizon,  gradually  rising  and  changing  into  fresh 
shapes  at  every  moment  that  had  the  finest  effect  imaginable. 

TALBOT  AND  WILSON  UNABLE  TO  PROCEED 

The  temperature  had  now  fallen  to  freezing  point.  Messrs. 
Talbot  and  Wilson,  overcome  by  the  cold,  became  so  sleepy  as  to 
be  unable  to  proceed.  We  waited  by  them  for  some  time  trying 
to  rouse  them  without  avail,  so  leaving  one  of  the  lads  with  them, 
my  guide  and  I  with  the  other  lad  started  out  afresh  so  as  to 
reach  the  summit  and  see  the  ship,  we  having  promised  Lord 
Byron  to  light  a  fire  that  he  might  see  through  his  glasses  how 
far  we  had  got.  As  we  advanced,  every  step  became  steeper  and 
more  difficult.  All  vegetation  had  ceased  ,  even  the  yucca-look- 
ing plant,  but  we  got  up  the  mountain  by  6  a.m.,  and  saw  the  ship 
looking  to  us  down  there  like  a  50-ton  vessel.  Here  we  collected 
enough  stumps  and  leaves  to  light  a  fire,  remaining  by  it  for  half 
an  hour,  and  our  companions  not  overtaking  us,  we  kept  on  our 
way,  at  times  over  hard  uneven  lava,  at  others  over  sandy  lava. 

REACHES  MAIN  PLATEAU  OF  MAUNA  KEA 

The  mountain  now  became  divided  into  several  high  conical 
sandy  hills  with  several  old  small  volcanic  craters  on  their  sides, 
forced  above  the  sand  for  some  yards  in  height  and  bleached 
nearly  white  from  long  exposure.  The  air  became  warmer  and 
more  pleasant  as  the  sun  rose  above  the  horizon,  but  we  had 

*7The  Silver  Sword  plant  of  Hawaii  was  first  brought  to  the 
knowledge  of  the  botanical  world  by  Dr.  W.  J.  Hooker,  who  described 
it  from  specimens  collected  by  David  Douglas  when  he  ascended 
Mauna  Kea  in  1834.  See  "David  Douglas,  Botanist  at  Hawaii,"  Hono- 
lulu 1919.  Macrae  climbed  Mauna  Kea  in  1825,  i.e.,  nine  years  ahead 
of  Douglas,  and  must  be  credited  with  having  been  the  first  botanist 
to  notice  and  collect  the  silver  sword  plant.  Some  modern  writers 
persist  in  stating  that  the  silver  sword  plant  is  found  on  Maui  only. 
This  is  not  the  case,  as  it  also  grows  on  the  high  mountains  of  Hawaii. 


55 

constantly  to  rest  from  the  difficulty  of  breathing  after  stopping 
to  rest.  At  8  a.m.  we  saw  the  lad,  left  with  Talbot  and  Wilson, 
coming  after  us.  Thinking  he  might  have  a  message  from  them, 
we  waited,  but  he  had  left  the  others  still  asleep,  and  only  came 
to  beg  to  be  allowed  to  return,  as  he  had  been  so  cold  waiting  by 
the  sleeping  men.  Giving  him  some  refreshment  and  spirits,  we 
sent  him  back  to  try  and  meet  Talbot  and  Wilson.  The  tempera- 
ture had  now  risen  to  46,  the  sun  shining  brightly.  We  resumed 
our  journey  by  the  bottom  of  the  sandy  conical  hills,  the  surface 
over  which  we  travelled  constantly  changing  and  more  uneven, 
sometimes  being  lava  sand  intermixed  wtih  small  broken  stones 
about  the  size  of  brickbats,  and  at  other  places  having  to  scramble 
over  large  sharp-edged  granite  stones  of  several  tons  weight,  which 
have  beyond  a  doubt,  been  thrown  up  by  some  previous  convul- 
sion. We  came  in  sight  of  the  snow  after  11  a.m.  Our  guide 
seemed  to  suffer  more  than  the  lad  and  myself  from  headache  and 
inclination  to  vomit,  and  we  had  yet  two  miles  to  go  over  a  still 
more  rugged  surface  to  reach  the  snow. 

MR.  IGOODRICH  COLLAPSES 

At  a  quarter  mile  from  the  summit  where  the  snow  lay,  our 
guide  collapsed  and  begged  us  to  get  him  some  snow  for  his  thirst.48 
The  lad  Mantle  held  out  better  than  I  had  expected. 

MACRAE  AND  BOY  MANTLE  REACH  SUMMIT 

At  12.30  I  reached  the  snow  on  the  summit,  which  lay  on 

porous  lava  of  a  sponge  color,  and  in  places  on  sand  of  a  red  color 

intermixed  with  red  and  black  cinders  like  the  conical  hills  we  had 

passed.       Some  of  these  cinders  had  common  quartz  and  two  or 

*sRev.  Joseph  Goodrich,  who,  on  this  occasion,  was  unfortunately 
laid  up  with  mountain  sickness,  had  on  26th  August,  1823,  reached  the 
summit  of  Mauna  Kea.  This  is  the  first  recorded  instance  of  the 
ascent  of  this  mountain,  although  Mr.  Goodrich  mentions  that  on 
reaching  the  top  of  one  of  the  terminal  cones  that  encircle  the  main 
plateau  of  Mauna  Kea,  he  discovered  a  heap  of  stones,  probably 
erected  by  some  former  visitor.  Who  this  former  visitor  was  is  un- 
known, but  he  was  probably  one  of  the  white  men  that  in  the  early 
years  of  the  nineteenth  century  got  a  living  by  shooting  wild  bullocks 
that  roved  on  the  side  of  Maunt  Kea.  It  is  very  unlikely  that  any 
native  had  reached  the  top  of  the  terminal  cones  on  the  summit,  ow- 
ing to  being  unprovided  with  warm  clothing  to  resist  the  great  cold 
and  also  to  the  fact  that  the  natives  had  a  superstitious  dread  of  the 
mountain  spirits  or  gods.  About  six  months  after  the  date  of  the 
first  ascent  of  Mauna  Kea  by  Mr.  Goodrich,  the  peak  was  scaled  by 
Dr.  Abraham  Blatchley  and  Mr.  Samuel  Ruggles,  both  connected  with 
the  American  Mission. 


56 

three  other  kinds  of  minerals  that  I  am  as  yet  unacquainted  with, 
very  often  bedded  in  one  lump  of  lava.  The  snow  in  some  parts 
was  about  three  feet  deep,  congealed  into  solid  ice,  excepting  from 
two  to  three  inches  at  top  of  rough  particles  of  loose  snow.  The 
whole  appeared  to  be  melting  fast  through  the  porous  lava  like  a 
sieve,  which  prevented  our  being  able  to  fill  our  vessels  with  water. 
We  therefore  filled  our  handkerchiefs  with  snow,  taking  mouthfuls 
at  the  same  time  to  quench  our  thirst.  I  sent  Mantle  with  some 
snow  to  our  guide,  and  remained  to  take  the  temperature  in  the 
sun  and  in  the  shade.  In  the  former  it  was  92,  and  in  the  latter, 
in  holes  beneath  the  snow,  44.  I  stayed  about  an  hour  admiring 
the  scenery.  For  a  space  of  about  12  miles  around  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  it  was  dreary  to  a  degree,  but  below  that,  the  pas- 
ture where  the  wild  cattle  fed  had  a  pleasing  effect.  The  forest 
which  encircles  the  island  of  Owhyee  below  the  pasture  land,  was 
hidden  in  fog,  so  that  I  only  saw  about  20  miles  in  a  direct  line, 
but  the  high  land  like  Mouna  Roa  and  other  hills  could  be  easily 
distinguished  above  the  fog,  although  none  of  them  were  covered 
with  snow. 

SHEEP  KILLED  OFF  BY  WILD  DOGS 

I  saw  many  skeletons  of  some  kind  of  animal,  devoid  of  all 
flesh,  but  apparently  not  long  dead,  and  on  rejoining  our  guide, 
was  informed  that  the  wild  dogs  had  almost  exterminated  the 
sheep  that  Vancouver  had  brought  with  the  cattle,  pursuing  them 
beyond  the  line  of  vegetation,  where  they  became  bewildered  and 
died  for  want  of  food. 

BEGINS  RETURN  JOURNEY 

It  being  now  after  2  p.m.,  and  still  feeling  unwell  from  the 
same  causes  as  our  guide,  we  left  this  interesting  place  and  tra- 
velled slowly  downwards,  finding  our  few  specimens  of  minerals, 
etc.,  almost  twice  their  real  weight.  In  this  hobbling  manner, 
scarcely  able  to  drag  our  limbs  for  the  last  four  miles,  we  reached 
our  hut,  where  we  found  that  the  lad  sent  back  in  the  morning 
to  Messrs.  Talbot  and  Wilson  had  not  met  them.  So  fearing 
they  might  have  succumbed  to  the  cold  in  their  sleep,  and  know- 
ing they  had  no  provisions,  we  much  repented  having  left  them; 
but  to  our  joy,  in  about  half  an  hour,  we  heard  them  calling  not 
far  distant.  When  they  came  to  the  hut  they  did  not  appear  so 
fatigued  as  we  ourselves,  in  spite  of  the  want  of  food.  They  had 


57 


slept  for  about  an  hour,  then  awoke  and  tried  to  follow  us,  but 
not  finding  any  of  our  tracks,  they  gave  up  the  idea  of  following 
us,  and  made  for  the  first  of  the  highest  hills.  The  snow  we 
had  brought  with  us  served  us  well  with  water,  for  the  natives  left 
behind  had  drunk  all  that  we  left  of  the  latter  article  except  about 
a  pint.  The  natives  rubbed  our  thighs  and  legs  for  us,  a  practice 
they  often  do  for  themselves  in  such  circumstances.  They  call  it 
lummi  lummi.  The  temperature  at  7  p.m.  was  50  and  at  10  p.m. 
48. 

We  calculated  the  summit  of  Mouna  Kaah  from  Byron's  (or 
Heddo)  Bay  to  be  about  70  miles  by  the  common  path,  but  in  a 
direct  line  perhaps  only  half  that  distance.  We  judged  the  peak 
could  not  be  under  18,000  feet  above  sea  level.49  The  land  along 
the  sea  coast  from  Byron's  Bay  to  upwards  of  40  miles  to  the  west 
and  about  6  miles  in  breadth,  was  free  from  wood  excepting  by 
the  sides  and  bottoms  of  the  ravines.  The  forest  that  surrounds 
the  central  part  of  the  island  begins  here,  at  the  distance  of  5  or  6 
miles  from  the  coast,  and  stretches  back  for  a  depth  of  12  miles, 
intersected  with  deep  valleys  and  large  rivers  of  fine  water.  The 
outskirts  of  the  forest  nearest  the  sea  are  chiefly  handsome  coloured 
flowering  species  which  entirely  disappear  after  5  or  6  miles  to- 
wards the  centre  of  the  wood.  The  commonest  species  of  metro- 
sideros  often  attains  a  height  of  40  feet  and  are  thick  in  propor- 
tion. The  wood  is  hard  and  durable. 

The  upper  parts  above  the  forest  resemble  pasture  land  for  7 
miles  farther,  and  are  thinly  covered  with  low  growing  shrubs  and 
abundance  of  strawberries  and  raspberries.  At  a  higher  eleva- 
tion, vegetation  ceases  for  the  last  eight  miles  towards  the  summit. 
The  clouds  generally  rise  on  the  mountains  of  Owhyee  and  the 
other  islands  in  the  morning  and  disperse  towards  evening.  Rain 
often  falls  at  night  and  also  in  the  daytime  some  distance  from 
the  peaks,  while  on  the  coast  the  sun  may  be  shining  and  there  ia 
no  appearance  of  rain. 

June  18.  Got  up  at  daylight,  being  disturbed  in  the  night  by 
the  howling  of  wild  dogs  which  caused  us  to  keep  our  fire  burning. 
At  six  set  out  on  our  homeward  way,  and  unknown  to  us,  the 
natives  at  once  set  fire  to  our  discarded  hut,  a  common  custom  our 
guide  told  us.  At  12  we  had  travelled  6  miles  and  reached  the 
Prussian  and  Welshman's  hut.  These  men  had  seen  no  wild 
cattle  since  we  left  them,  the  only  animals  observed  having  been 

*9Mauna  Kea  is  13,825  feet  high. 


a  wild  dog  and  cat.  The  dog  seemed  to  be  the  same  kind  as  the 
domesticated  native  one  of  which  they  eat  the  flesh,  and  the  cat 
appeared  like  the  European  breed.  After  a  breakfast  of  plenty 
of  slices  of  roast  beef  and  abundance  of  water,  my  companions 
spread  their  mats  in  the  shade  and  slept  till  noon.  I  shifted  my 
specimens  that  had  been  left  here  into  dry  papers,  and  gathered 
others,  including  strawberry  and  raspberry  plants  to  take  with  me 
to  England.  At  2  the  whole  camp  was  on  the  move  for  Lapahoi, 
where  we  had  left  the  canoe  and  the  natives.  On  reaching  the 
first  hut,  we  found  only  the  two  foreigners,  the  rest  having  gone 
on  to  Lapahoi.  They  promised  to  have  a  fire  ready  for  us  to  dry 
our  clothes  at,  but  although  I  gave  them  each  a  dollar  on  start- 
ing they  had  nothing  ready  for  us  and  did  not  get  us  any  food 
till  9  p.m. 

NATIVES  OBJECT  TO  SUNDAY  TRAVEL 

June  19.  Hazy,  light  showers.  Sunday,  and  on  that  ac- 
count the  natives  refused  to  accompany  me  to  join  the  other  part 
of  my  party  with  their  loads,  and  said  the  missionaries  had  or- 
dered them  not  to. 

GAME  OF  NOA 

The  blacksmith,  however,  promised  to  accompany  me  with  his 
own  people  at  11  a.m.,  but  instead  of  doing  so,  went  and  played 
and  gambled  at  Nooah.  This  game  is  one  of  their  most  ancient 
and  frequently  played  pastimes.  It  consists  in  placing  in  a  row, 
five  small  tapa  bags  stuffed  with  cotton  or  the  down  of  ferns, 
underneath  one  of  which  is  hidden  a  stone  so  as  to  deceive  the 
parties  playing  which  of  the  bags  it  was  put  under.  The  players 
are  seated  around  in  a  circle,  each  armed  with  a  small  wand  in 
his  hand  with  which  he  strikes  the  bag  he  supposes  the  stone  to 
be  under.  There  are  generally  ten  players  with  different  coloured 
rags  tied  to  their  wands.  I  have  been  told  that  at  this  game  they 
gamble  their  hogs  and  all  their  possessions,  even  their  wives,  and 
are  very  strict  in  paying  their  debts  of  honor. 

Leaving  them  gambling,  I  left  with  the  two  lads  and  two 
natives  for  Lapahoi,  and  joined  my  party  there  about  3  p.m. 
They  were  just  about  to  start  for  home,  having  expected  me  in 
the  morning.  The  canoe  had  not  waited  for  us  as  ordered  but 
had  returned  home  the  second  day  after  we  started  for  the  moun- 
tain. We  therefore  had  to  go  home  by  land,  and  took  up  our 


59 

quarters  for  the  night  about  7  p.m.  after  having  crossed  a  number 
of  deep  ravines,  wading  through  rivers,  at  times  up  to  our  middle. 
Having  travelled  about  10  miles  east  of  Lapahoi,  the  natives 
lighted  a  fire,  for  we  were  drenched,  and  cooked  some  bananas  and 
breadfruit.  To  do  this,  they  first  of  all  got  some  stones  heated 
red  hot,  then  afterwards  put  them  into  a  gourd  calabash  with  a 
few  leaves  of  the  tea  tree  underneath  and  the  same  again  above. 
Then  were  added  cabbages  cut  in  pieces,  intermixed  with  bananas 
that  had  only  the  outer  skin  taken  off.  Over  all  on  top  were  put 
more  leaves  to  prevent  the  steam  rising  upwards.  In  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  the  mess  was  ready  to  eat,  and  our  vegetable 
supper  was  by  no  means  unpalatable. 

DIFFICULT  TRAVELLING  OVER  RAVINES 

June  20.  Cloudy  and  cold.  Got  up  at  4  a.m.,  and  com- 
menced our  journey  of  crossing  ravines  and  fording  rivers,  taking 
off  our  shoes  for  surer  footing.  At  one  river  Mr.  Talbot  nearly 
came  to  grief,  for  insisting  on  crossing  at  the  same  place  as  the 
natives,  in  spite  of  their  protests  that  he  did  not  know,  as  they  did, 
where  to  find  the  stones  on  which  to  place  his  feet,  after  a  few 
steps  he  was  swept  off  his  feet,  and  managed  to  get  hold  of  a 
stone  that  was  above  the  water  whereon  happened  to  stand  two 
natives,  who  caught  hold  of  his  hands,  but  a  third  native  attempt- 
ing to  lay  hold  of  his  body  was  carried  away  by  the  current  to 
some  distance  not  far  off  from  a  waterfall.  The  natives  holding 
Talbot  could  not  drag  him  out,  for  one  of  his  legs  was  caught  be- 
tween two  stones.  I  saw  the  whole  affair  but  could  not  get  to  him, 
having  waited  to  go  higher  up  to  a  surer  place  with  Wilson,  but 
I  managed  to  get  near  enough  to  get  the  barrel  of  my  gun  under 
his  leg  and  succeeded  in  extricating  it,  after  which  the  natives 
wCre  able  to  pull  him  out  of  the  water. 

The  natives  had  shown  great  anxiety  to  get  Talbot  out  of 
danger,  and  as  a  mark  of  gratitude,  he  gave  them  each  a  knife. 
He  was  little  the  worse  except  for  bruises.  The  natives  said  that 
if  he  had  been  drowned,  Kaumanna  would  have  been  sure  to  have 
killed  them  for  not  saving  his  life.  All  the  rest  got  safely  across, 
but  we  soon  came  to  another  river  as  large,  and  at  this  one  Mr. 
Wilson  fell  and  broke  our  flask  with  the  little  remains  of  our 
brandy!  At  9  a.m.  we  halted  at  a  large  hut  and  breakfasted  off 
a  few  taros  and  some  poi.  Then  continuing  on  our  way  we 
Crossed  ravines  400  to  500  feet  deep  with  fine,  clear  water  at  the 


60 

bottom.       The  sides  of  these  ravines  had  plenty  of  rose  apple, 
breadfruit  trees,  pandanus,  ferns  and  other  plants. 

&ETS  BACK  TO  HILO 

We  arrived  opposite  the  ship  at  5  p.m.  very  tired  from  our 
many  climbs  up  and  down,  since  we  left  Lapahoi  on  Sunday,  dis- 
tant 40  miles.  : 

Mantle  who  had  gone  with  me  to  the  snow  and  two  of  the 
natives  were  the  only  three  who  had  managed  to  keep  up  with  us 
all  the  way.  On  getting  on  board  the  ship,  where  I  was  invited 
to  dine  with  Talbot  and  Wilson,  I  heard  that  Mr.  Forder  was 
still  with  my  things  in  the  old  tent,  so  I  slipped  away,  got  into 
a  canoe  again  without  dining,  to  find  out  why  the  things  had 
never  been  moved  according  to  promise. 

June  21.  Got  my  specimens  into  dry  paper.  The  lad 
Trounce  arrived  saying  he  and  my  things  had  been  upset  out  of 
the  canoe  in  crossing  the  river  at  the  watering  place,  but  as  he 
had  nearly  been  drowned,  I  could  not  be  angry,  so  again  I  had  at 
once  to  set  to  work  to  shift  everything  into  dry  paper.  Accom- 
panied by  Mr.  Young,  as  interpreter,  I  succeeded  in  hiring  a  hut 
for  the  remainder  of  my  stay,  for  which,  in  preference  to  money, 
I  gave  two  blankets  for  three  weeks. 

NATIVE  RENT  COLLECTION 

June  22.  In  the  forenoon,  over  two  hundred  natives  came 
from  the  east  part  of  the  island  with  their  rents  for  Queen 
Kaumanna,  such  as  tapa  cloths,50  and  mats  of  various  dyed  pat- 
terns, hogs,  taro,  etc.,  etc.  She  never  attempted  to  smile  or  give  a 
pleasant  look  at  the  natives  who  brought  this  rent,  although  I 
heard  she  had  not  been  on  the  island  during  the  last  four  years. 


to  about  the  end  of  the  fifties  of  last  century,  the  natives 
on  the  island  of  Oahu  were  in  the  habit  of  paying  at  least  a  share  of 
their  taxes  in  the  form  of  tapas.  The  tapas  were  deposited  in  the 
Pa-auhau  or  tax  yard,  situated  about  where  Marin  Street  is,  near  the 
foot  of  Nuuami  St.,  and  west  of  Merchant  Street.  Messrs.  Robinson 
and  Lawrence  had  a  ship  repairing  yard  at  "the  point,"  near  where  the 
fort  stood.  They  were  in  the  habit  of  buying  these  tapas  from  the 
government  and  used  them  for  felt  under  the  sheets  of  copper  nailed 
on  the  sides  of  vessels  that  were  being  repaired.  Tapa  or  kapa  making 
is  now  a  thing  of  the  past  in  Hawaii,  but  the  process  of  making  it 
may  still  be  seen  in  Fiji,  Tonga,  and  Samoa.  In  the  Cook  group,  Ta- 
hiti and  other  South  Sea  islands,  tapa  has  given  place  to  gaudy  col- 
ored cotton  prints,  woven  in  Manchester  and  dyed  in  Glasgow. 


61 

I  asked  her  permission)  however,  and  she  gave  me  three  of  the 
largest  sugar  canes  as  specimens.  A  mat  which  was  given  to  the 
surgeon,  I  was  informed,  would  take  a  woman  a  year  to  make. 
When  the  women  get  to  a  certain  age,  it  is  their  duty  to  manufac- 
ture all  the  tapa  cloths  and  mats. 

On  going  to  my  hired  hut  to  take  my  traps,  and  offering  my 
two  blankets,  they  did  not  want  to  let  me  have  it  after  all,  and 
the  wife  and  some  others  shed  tears.  He  told  me  it  was  their 
fear  of  my  burning  the  hut  when  I  went  away,  as  was  their  cus- 
tom. Being  assured  that  I  had  no  such  intentions,  they  at  once 
received  me  as  tenant. 

MACRAE'S  HUT  TABOOED 

The  chief  man  of  the  place  came  at  Mr.  Young's  request  to 
taboo  my  hut,  to  prevent  my  being  crowded  by  the  natives. 

The  charm  wTas  done  thus :  The  chief  stuck  in  the  ground  a 
few  wands  at  some  distance  from  each  other,  all  round  the  hut, 
which  on  being  seen  by  the  natives,  they  never  dare  enter,  unless 
sent  with  some  message  by  any  of  the  chiefs. 

BOTANIZES  IN  PUNA 

<Tune  23.  Went  about  nine  miles  east  of  Byron's  Bay  to  col- 
lect plants,  but  met  with  little  success.  Messrs.  Talbot  and  Wil- 
son called  to  say  they  were  going  to  the  volcano  on  the  25th,  and 
had  come  to  make  arrangements  as  to  a  guide  and  provisions  to 
take  with  us. 

JOURNEY  TO  KILAUEA  VOLCANO 

June  24.  Arranged  with  the  blacksmtih,  met  at  Mouna 
Kaah,  and  five  natives,  to  act  as  guide  and  carriers.  The  former 
recommended  me  to  speak  to  Kaumanna  in  order  to  get  her  to 
order  the  latter  not  to  leave  us  till  our  return. 

June  25.  Talbot  and  Wilson  and  the  guide  appeared,  but 
none  of  the  natives,  so  the  guide  had  to  go  in  search  of  them.  By 
7  a.m.  the  guide  came  back  with  the  natives,  and  we  began  our 
journey  as  the  first  party  for  the  volcano  from  the  ship.  His 
Lordship  and  several  others  intend  to  follow  us  in  a  few  days.  We 
travelled  thirteen  miles  by  1  p.m.,  five  miles  of  that  distance  being 
through  a  wood  over  a  narrow  path  of  broken  pieces  of  sharp 
edged  lava,  which  we  could  hardly  bear  our  own  weight  upon 
without  pain  to  our  feet.  This  wood  had  many  trees,  mostly 


62 

metrosideros  of  over  40  feet,  but  slender  in  proportion,  and  far 
inferior  in  size  to  those  we  met  on  our  way  to  Mouna  Kaah. 
Under  their  shade  grow  numbers  of  ferns  which  hide  the  lava. 

At  6  p.m.,  having  travelled  20  miles  since  leaving  the  ship, 
we  reached  a  hut  newly  put  up  for  the  use  of  Lord  Byron  when 
he  passes  this  way.  The  last  six  miles  were  through  an  open 
country,  over  solid  greyish  black  undulated  lava,  covered  with 
stumpy  ferns,  chiefly  cythea,  which  the  natives  often  burn  during 
the  dry  season.  We  found  also  quantities  of  three  sorts  of  cran- 
berries on  each  side  of  the  path.  They  were  ripe  and  we  en- 
joyed them  much  although  somewhat  acid.  The  road  through 
which  we  had  come,  continued  all  the  way  up  towards  Mouna 
Roa. 

We  were  joined  in  the  hut  for  the  night  by  numbers  of  nat- 
ives, who  without  the  slightest  compunction,  examined  the  skin  of 
our  hands  and  feet  to  see  if  it  were  the  same  colour  as  our  faces. 
But  a  look  from  us  would  make  the  children  under  ten  take  to 
their  heels.  The  old  women  generally  nursed  the  children,  carry- 
ing them  on  their  backs,  never  in  their  arms.  When  travelling 
any  distance,  they  tie  the  children  to  their  back  with  a  bandage 
of  tapa  cloth  placed  round  the  child's  neck  and  thighs,  so  as  to 
leave  the  woman's  hands  at  liberty. 

June  26.  Wet  and  foggy,  so  could  not  resume  our  journey 
till  after  8  a.m.  Reached  the  last  native  huts  on  the  way  to  the 
volcano  by  12,  having  travelled  10  miles  over  the  same  kind  of 
undulating  lava  as  yesterday.  Our  guide  here  spent  two  hours 
trying  to  procure  some  fowls  or  a  hog  to  take  with  us,  but  the 
natives  wouldn't  part  with  them  unless  we  gave  three  times  their 
value,  so  we  started  again  with  what  little  provision  we  had  of 
our  own  with  us.  Our  natives  grumbled,  saying  they  would  have 
to  eat  ferns  before  they  got  back.  However,  after  we  had  left  the 
huts  some  distance,  the  natives  who  lived  there  sent  after  us  a 
couple  of  fowls  for  which  they  would  take  no  payment. 

By  6  p.m.  we  reached  two  old  hovels  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
wood  of  acacia  trees,  having  travelled  about  18  miles  since  morn- 
ing over  lava  covered  with  ferns,  cranberries  and  low  straggling 
bushes  of  red  flowering  metrosideros  and  along  the  last  two  miles, 
beds  of  strawberries  growing  under  the  ferns  and  grass  on  sandy 
pulverized  lava.  Here  we  stopped  for  the  night,  our  guide  say- 
ing we  were  not  far  from  the  volcano.  Repaired  the  hovels,  the 
natives  making  a  fire  to  cook  the  fowls.  Our  guide  reported  he 


63 

had  seen  the  volcano  smoking  in  the  distance,  but  we  hardly  be- 
lieved him. 

KILAUEA  IKI 

June  27.  Misty  and  foggy  morning,  so  could  not  start  till 
7  a.m.,  when  we  passed  on  our  left  a  large  old  volcano  crater, 
over  1000  feet  deep,  now  covered  with  verdure  on  its  internal  de- 
clivities, and  the  bottom,  which  is  level,  having  a  few  low  growing 
red  flowering  metrosideros  bushes. 

ARRIVES  AT  KILAUEA  VOLCANO 

At  8  a.m.  we  reached  a  shed  in  good  condition,  situated  on 
the  edge  of  the  active  volcano,  which  we  now  find  we  could  easily 
have  reached  last  night  instead  of  staying  and  repairing  the 
hovels.  Besides  we  could  have  had  the  gratification  of  watching 
the  burning  craters  during  the  night.  Here  we  stood  gazing  on 
the  immense  depth  below  covered  with  clouds  of  smoke,  while  at 
short  intervals  a  terrific  noise  was  distinctly  heard  among  the 
different  burning  craters. 

DESCENDS  INTO  THE  KILAUEA  VOLCANO  PIT 

In  the  meantime  the  natives  were  busy  making  sandals  of 
grass  to  protect  their  feet  from  the  lava  when  they  got  below. 
At  8.30  we  all  eagerly  began  to  descend  from  the  hut,  with  walking 
sticks,  there  being  nothing  to  hold  by  but  short  tufts  of  dry  grass. 
The  loose  stones  kept  rolling  amongst  us  all  the  way  down  to  the 
first  ledge,  which  we  reached  at  9.30,  without  any  injury  beyond 
bruises  from  the  stones.  The  vegetation  ceased  at  this  point,  the 
burning  craters  being  at  least  500  feet  below  us.  Our  road  be- 
came more  difficult  and  steep,  over  large  irregular  sharp-edged 
stones  torn  from  their  bed,  piled  up  loose  upon  each  other  and 
intermixed  with  flat  pieces  of  honey-combed  lava. 

By  noon,  with  difficulty  and  danger,  some  of  us  had  reached 
the  nearest  smoking  pillar,  about  30  feet  high  and  covered  with 
sulphur,  which  gave  it  a  beautiful  yellow  appearance.  We  waited 
here  some  time  for  the  natives  to  come  up  who  had  hurt  their 
naked  feet  and  legs  in  falling  in  through  the  hollow  lava  that  lay 
in  places  resembling  flues  on  the  top  of  the  more  solid  material 
underneath,  which  required  the  greatest  caution  to  try  it  first 
with  our  sticks  to  see  whether  it  would  break  before  we  attempted 
to  advance  a  step  upon  it.  We  crossed  many  wide  rents.  Some 


64 

of  these  openings  were  constantly  smoking  and  smelt  so  strong 
of  brimstone  that  got  up  our  nostrils  when  going  over  them,  as 
nearly  to  suffocate  us. 

While  standing  by  the  brimstone  pillar,  we  noticed  that  at 
times  there  issued  forth  sudden  gusts  of  smoke,  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  brimstone,  which  obliged  us  to  be  careful  to  avoid 
when  we  approached  near  it  for  the  purpose  of  picking  up  speci- 
mens of  the  hot  lava  covered  with  sulphur  from  the  opening  in 
the  sides.  The  natives  who  had  experienced  difficulty  in  com- 
ing thus  far,  besides  fear,  now  begged  leave  to  return  again  to 
the  top,  which  we  readily  granted,  while  we  four  went  farther  on 
to  examine  another  pillar  about  50  feet  high,  burning  red  at  the 
top  like  a  furnace  and  emitting  to  a  considerable  distance  from  it, 
lumps  of  soft  lava  and  cinders  of  various  colours.  On  getting 
near  to  the  pillar,  the  terrific  noise  kept  up  underneath  every- 
where round  it  for  a  considerable  way  from  where  we  stood,  in- 
timidated us  that  we  were  afraid  that  while  we  remained  there, 
the  part  underneath  us  might  be  torn  to  pieces  every  minute. 

Frightful  was  the  noise  kept  up  by  the  burning  beneath 
among  the  numerous  pillars,  which  were  nearly  hidden  in  smoke 
and  impossible  of  approach,  except  to  windward,  owing  to  the 
strong  smell  of  sulphur.  The  noise  of  the  burning  craters  re- 
sembled a  blacksmith's  forge,  and  could  be  distinctly  heard  half 
a  mile  away.  At  1  p.m.,  as  we  had  not  time  to  stay  longer,  we 
began  to  re-ascend  at  a  point  a  mile  farther  to  the  north  of  the 
hut  from  which  we  had  started  in  the  morning.  We  found  the 
temperature  to  be  92  in  the  shade,  and  in  the  sun  it  exceeded  the 
height  of  my  thermometer,  which  was  only  marked  up  to  132. 

The  volcano  is  situated  about  40  miles  S.E.  of  Byron's  Bay, 
at  the  foot  of  Mouna  Roa.  According  to  the  missionaries  who 
measured  it  some  years  ago,  its  circumference  is  7  miles  round 
the  edge  at  the  top,  and  five  miles  round  the  almost  circular  basin 
below.  The  depth  is  in  most  places  from  1000  to  1200  feet.  The 
ledge,  which  is  nearly  perfect  all  round  the  basin  is  rather  more 
than  half  way  down  from  the  top.  The  number  of  burning 
craters,  in  the  form  of  pillars,  exceeded  twelve,  some  of  which 
were  over  50  feet  in  height  and  generally  of  a  bronze  shining 
colour  and  of  various  shapes,  with  several  unequal  openings  on 
their  sides  to  the  summit,  where  sudden  gusts  of  smoke  issue  forth 
at  intervals. 


65 

Adjoining  the  craters  where  we  had  travelled,  the  surface 
varied.  In  some  places  the  ground  was  covered  with  sharp- 
edged  granite  stones,  piled  up  above  each  other,  intermixed  with 
similar  hard  stones  of  a  red  colour,  or  smooth  and'  white,  but  in 
general  the  basin  was  composed  of  black  and  greyish  porous 
honeycombed  brittle  lava,  often  undulated  like  waves  of  the  sea, 
and  where  late  convulsions  had  taken  place,  it  formed  at  short 
distances  hollow  burning  passages  of  great  length,  which  are  full 
of  red  and  white  ashes.  When  the  thin  crust  above  these  pas- 
sages are  trod  upon,  it  easily  falls  in.  Most  of  the  lava  was 
crystallized  in  small  particles  on  the  top  like  glass,  which  if 
fallen  upon,  tore  the  skin  of  hands  and  feet  through  our  clothes. 

The  internal  declivities  on  the  west  side  are  steep  and  free 
from  vegetation,  but. on  the  south  and  east  sides  vegetation  con- 
tinues in  most  parts  to  the  first  ledge  and  consists  chiefly  of  the 
red  flowering  metrosideros,  dwarfed  in,  size,  and  mixed  with  tufts- 
of  two  or  three  kinds  of  dry  grasses.  To  the  south  we  noticed  ai 
large  space  covered  with  brimstone,  looking  like  the  chalky  cliffs 
of  Dover  and  Gravesend.  At  2  p.m.  we  gained  the  summit  on 
the  north  side,  where,  near  the  top,  I  saw  several  bushes  of  san- 
ders  wood  in  flower,  with  a  few  other  plants,  but  there  were  not 
the  same  variety  as  met  with  when  nearly  above  the  zone  of  vege- 
tation on  the  slope  of  Mouna  Kaah. 

On  the  flat  land  at  the  top  were  several  hot  springs  under- 
neath narrow  deep  openings  divided  in  the  earth  at  short  dis- 
tances apart  from  each  other,  and  spread  over  for  half  a  mile  in 
breadth  from  the  edge  of  the  volcano  top,  For  more  than  a  foot 
wide,  these  openings  had  on  the  surface  of  their  sides,  luxuriant 
patches  of  green  moss  growing  from  the  moisture  caused  by  the 
Bteam.  Some  of  the  water  near  the  surface  which  we  drank,  was 
only  warm.  Here  we  noticed  some  sheds  used  by  the  natives 
when  cutting  trees  for  canoes.  We  also  saw  some  remains  of 
cooked'  fern  (cythea)  which  our  natives  are  glad  to  eat,  and  which 
we  found  not  at  all  unpalatable. 

We  reached  our  previous  night's  resting  place  by  4  p.m.,  hav- 
ing met  on  our  way  with  quantities  of  cranberries  and  straw- 
berries. Some  of  the  sulphur  specimens  which  I  had  put  in  seed 
paper  when  down  in  the  volcano  at  the  first  pillar,  I  found  had 
already  burnt  through  the  paper  and  my  coat  pocket.  Its  taste 
was  more  acid  than  of  sulphur.  We  then  travelled  homewards 
and  reached  the  first  huts  soon  after  dark,  and  found  waiting  for 


66 

us,  the  natives  that  we  had  allowed  to  return  from  the  volcano. 
They  had  some  taro  and  poi  ready,  being  all  the  food  they  could 
obtain.  Having  mixed  the  poi  with  a  little  sugar  brought  by 
Talbot  and  Wilson  for  the  purpose,  and  warming  the  taro  before 
the  fire,  we  managed  to  satisfy  our  hunger,  and  then  retired  to 
rest,  hoping  to  get  home  the  next  morning. 

MEETS  LORD  BYRON  AND  PARTY  EN  ROUTE  TO 

VOLCANO 

June  28.  Got  up  at  daylight  and  started  for  home.  When  we 
had  gone  four  miles  we  met  Lord  Byron's  party  going  to  the  vol- 
cano. It  consisted  of  30  natives  with  the  head  chief  (Maro)  at 
Byron's  Bay  as  their  leader,  who  had  gone  on  ahead  to  have  fires 
lighted  to  cook  a  meal  for  his  Lordship.  A  little  after  these  we 
met  the  naturalist  and  one  of  the  missionaries,  followed  by  the 
surgeon  and  draftsman,  then  the  chaplain  with  two  natives  carry- 
ing his  hammock  slung  to  a  pole,  ready  for  him  to  get  into  when 
tired.  Again  after  these  came  the  surveyor,  first  lieutenant  and 
another  missionary  and  a  boy  middy.  A  short  way  in  the  rear 
Was  Lord  Byron,  accompanied  by  another  middy  who  had  his 
hammock  with  him  ready  to  be  carried  like  the  chaplain.  When 
we  informed  Lord  Byron  of  our  want  of  provisions,  he  told  us 
to  take  anything  we  wanted  from  the  carriers,  as  he  had  plenty  of 
everything.  We  reached  the  hut  where  we  had  slept  the  first 
night  at  S  p.m. 

June  29.     Sorted  and  packed  up  my  specimens  of  lava. 

NATIVE  BURIAL  CUSTOMS 

June  30.  A  man  about  thirty  years  of  age  died  in  the  even- 
ing, and  I  found  his  relatives  had  taken  him  out  of  his  hut  to 
breathe  his  last  in  a  temporary  shed,  owing  to  a  superstitious  cus- 
tom among  them  never  to  inhabit  a  hut  where  anyone  had  died, 
but  to  burn  it  immediately.  The  body  was  lying  on  a  dirty  mat 
rolled  up  in  a  piece  of  tapa  cloth,  with  a  few  natives  making  a 
howling  noise  over  it.  On  asking  them  what  was  the  matter, 
they  leaned  their  head  on  one  hand,  while  they  pointed  the  other 
towards  the  sky  where  they  said  he  had  gone  to  sleep  and  parted 
from  them  for  ever.  I  told  what  I  had  seen  to  Mr.  Young,  say- 
ing I  had  never  seen  a  funeral  since  I  had  been  here.  He  replied 
that  he  had  only  seen  one  and  that  by  a  great  favor.  It  took  place 


NUKU'IW! 
"liwi's  bill"   (Strongylodon  lucidum) 


67 

in  the  head  of  night,and  was  made  up  of  a  few  old  men  and  women 
who  are  always  entrusted  to  bury  the  dead  about  that  time  with 
great  secrecy,  for  what  reasons  he  did  not  know,  only  supposed  it 
to  have  arisen  from  an  old  superstitious  custom.  He  said  some  of 
them  never  buried  their  dead,  but  concealed  them  for  a  certain 
time  till  the  flesh  decayed  off  the  bones  sufficiently  dry  to  be  tied 
up  afterwards  in  a  bundle  of  tapa  cloth  and  then  hung  up  inside 
the  roof  of  their  huts. 

July  1.  Lord  Byron  and  his  party  returned  from  the  vol- 
cano, some  of  them  very  lame. 

VISITS  WAIAJSTUENUE  OR  RAINBOW  FALLS 

July  2.  Went  at  5  a.m.  to  see  the  waterfall  above  Byron's 
Bay,  with  Mr.  Talbot  and  Mr.  'Groodrich,  our  Mouna  Kaah  guide. 
The  fall  was  situated  about  six  miles  inland  and  was  over  60  feet 
in  height.  The  river  is  one  of  the  largest  on  this  side  of  the 
island,  and  like  the  rest  has  many  falls  upon  it  at  no  great  dis- 
tance from  each  other.  I  remained  with  Mantle  in  the  wood  till 
dusk,  gathering  plants,  some  of  which  I  had  not  seen  before,  par- 
ticularly a  beautiful  climbing  plant,  resembling  an  erythrina,  with 
crimson  flowers,51  and  several  metrosideros  and  ferns.  I  learned' 
on  my  return  that  Lord  Byron  intends  to  sail  on  Thursday,  the 
7th  for  certain,  which  prevents  me  from  going  again  to  collect  in 
the  woods. 

July  3.  Sunday.  Fine.  Busy  all  day  among  my  speci- 
mens and  seeds  and  writing.  Another  party  of  gentlemen  from 
the  ship  have  gone  to  the  volcano  to  be  back  before  the  ship  sails. 

July  5.  My  last  night  on  shore  at  Byron's  Bay,  as  I  have 
to  be  on  the  ship  with  all  my  traps  by  tomorrow  morning. 

July  6.  At  4  a.m.  a  boat  came  and  took  me  with  all  my  be- 
longings on  board. 

LEAVES  HILO  FOR  OAHU 

July  7.  Weighed  anchor  at  5  a.m.  and  sailed  for  Woahoo 
taking  with  us  the  queens  we  had  brought  from  thence,  also  two 
missionaries,  their  wives  and  families  and  over  100  natives.  At 
2  p.m.  still  light,  variable  winds,  so  lowered  the  boats  to  tow  the 
ship  off  the  land. 

•iNukulwi  'Strongylodon  lucidum  Seem.),  i.e.,  liwi's  bill  or  beak 
from  the  shape  of  the  flower. 


68 

July  8.  Fine,  with  fresh  breezes  from  the  east.  Made  Dia- 
mond point,  near  Hanarura  at  Woahoo.  Stood  off  and  on  the 
land  for  the  night. 

HONOLULU  ONCE  MOKE 

July  9.  Fine.  Moderate  breeze  from  the  N.E.  Came  to 
anchor  off  the  harbour  of  Hanarura.  The  pilot  Adams  came  on 
board  and  reported  that  the  Asia,  64,  a  Spanish  ship,  with  two 
brigs  in  company,  who  were  pirates  on  the  coast  of  California, 
were  said  to  intend  touching  here  for  supplies.  This  informa- 
tion came  by  a  schooner  lately  arrived  from  the  coast.  In  con- 
sequence, all  was  soon  bustle  to  get  the  natives  and  their  luggage 
on  shore  as  soon  as  possible  so  that  the  guns  might  be  mounted 
ready  for  action.  At  9  a.m.  Lord  Byron  requested  me  to  go 
ashore  and  get  my  plant  boxes  on  board  at  once,  as  he  might  get 
under  weigh  this  evening  and  join  the  schooner  at  Karakaakua 
Bay.  Went  and  returned  with  the  boxes  and  found  all  the 
natives  gone  and  the  guns  mounted  and  loaded,  the  sailors  in  high 
spirits,  hoping  for  the  enemy  to  give  them  battle  and  so  gain  a 
prize. 

MARIN,  THE  SPANIARD 

July  10.  Sunday.  Fresh  N.E.  wind.  Went  on  shore  as 
we  were  not  to  sail  till  tomorrow  morning,  not  to  return  here 
again.  I  went  to  see  what  plants  were  left  of  those  brought  out 
from  England.  Met  Lord  Byron  and  Marin  the  Spaniard.  We 
found  only  six  plants  and  these  without  leaves.  Marin  said  he 
had  removed  the  others  to  his  farm  in  the  mountains,  where  many 
were  doing  well.  To  Mr.  Marin's  diligence  as  a  farmer,  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  particularly  Woahoo,  may  be  said  to  be  under 
some  obligations  for  his  introducing  and  multiplying  various  kinds 
of  animals,  which  in  a  few  years  will  be  plentiful  on  the  island. 


When  I  was  about  to  leave  Mr.  Pitt,  I  requested  the  favour  of 
Marin  to  inquire  of  him  if  he  would  give  me  some  patterns  of 
their  native  cloth  for  the  Horticultural  Society,  and  received  for 
answer  that  he  would  consider  of  it.  Remained  on  shore  with 


O    * 

z   * 


one  of  the  gentlemen  from  the  ship  at  the  inn  of  Novara. 
DUSTY  HONOLULU 

July  11.  Fine,  with  strong  wind,  which  raised  clouds  of  dust 
in  the  town  that  nearly  suffocated  and  blinded  me.  Since  we  had 
been  at  Owhyee,  1  found  that  Pitt,  who  was  60  years  of  age,  had 
married  a  young  woman  of  19.  She,  with  her  sister,  had  lived 
with  him  for  many  years.  This  marriage  is  the  second  which 
has  ever  yet  taken  place  in  these  islands.  Went  on  board  where 
all  was  in  readiness  to  get  under  weigh  when  Lord  Byron  came 
on  board. 

July  12.  Lord  Byron  on  leaving  the  shore  to  embark,  was 
saluted  with  13  guns  from  the  forts  and  was  accompanied  by  Pitt, 
Boki  and  several  other  chiefs  to  take  farewell  of  us.  It  was  now 
understood  on  board  that  we  were  to  leave  the  islands  for  Otahiti, 
after  touching  at  Karakaakua  Bay  to  take  on  board  the  surveyors 
out  of  the  Sandwich  Island  schooner  given  them  for  their  use  by 
the  government  to  survey  on  the  coast.  Pitt  was  most  interested 
in  examining  everything  on  board,  and  requested  Lord  Byron  to 
make  all  sail  and  get  some  distance  to  sea  that  he  might  see  how 
we  sailed.  To  humour  him,  Lord  Byron  had  all  the  hands  must- 
ered and  as  they  passed  along  in  front  of  them  they  all  saluted,  to 
the  scandal  of  some  of  the  middies,  etc.,  that  British  men-o-wars' 
men  should  salute  a  half-civilied  savage,  unaccustomed  to  such 
honour  from  his  own  bareheaded  countrymen.  At  3  p.m.,  made 
in  again  for  the  land  sent  them  all  on  shore  wtih  a  salute  of  13 
guns  from  the  Blonde. 

July  13.  Fine,  with  moderate  wind.  Made  sail  as  yesterday 
evening  for  Karakaakua  Bay. 

ANCHORS  AT  KEALAKEKUA  BAY 

July  14.  Saw  the  high  land  of  Owhyee,  above  the  clouds, 
covered  with  snow.  At  10  a.m.  came  to  anchor  at  Karakaakua 
Bay  in  26  fathoms.  Went  on  shore  and  were  shown  where  a 
cannon  shot  had  gone  through  the  trunk  of  a  coconut  tree,  near 
where  Capt.  Cook  was  killed.  Some  of  the  others  of  our  party 
went  close  to  the  water's  edge  looking  at  the  spot  where  he  fell. 
This  place  is  at  times  overflown  by  the  tide  at  high  water.  Hav- 
ing satisfied  our  curiosity  here,  we  went  to  examine  some  caves 


70 

close  at  hand  in  front  of  a  steep  volcanic  rock  which  divides  Ka- 
rona  from  Karakaakua.5-  The  first  cave  was  full  of  dozens  of 
old  muskets  apparently  the  manufacture  of  various  countries. 
Scarcely  one  was  complete.  They  were  heaped  up,  broken  in 
pieces  and  covered  with  rust.  While  hunting  in  the  corner  for 
curiosities,  we  found  an  old  fishing  rod  (which  was  given  to  me) 
and  a  club.  The  rod  was  chiefly  made  of  human  bone,  and  the 
club  made  of  wood  shaped  like  a  thigh  bone.  However,  Lord 
Byron  seeing  the  chief  at  his  hut,  prevented  me  from  keeping  the 
rod,  as  we  had  no  permission  to  take  anything  away,  so  to  our  dis- 
appointment, it  had  to  be  replaced  here  we  found  it. 

We  next  visited  the  apot  where  Captain  Cook's  body  was  said 
to  have  been  divided  by  the  chiefs.53  It  is  about  half  a  mile 
above  Karona,  on  the  top  of  a  hill.  We  found  the  place  had 
been  held  sacred  for  some  time,  judging  from  the  appearance  of 
the  old  lava  walls  raised'  round  about  20  feet  square  and  from  4 
to  5  feet  high,  and  nearly  the  same  thickness. 

In  the  evening  we  went  across  to  the  other  side  of  the  bay  at 
Karakaakua,  which,  like  Karona,54  is  composed  of  only  a  few 
straggling  huts,  under  coconut  trees  growing  entirely  upon  lava, 
without  any  signs  of  anything  nutritious  to  support  them.  Near 
where  the  immortal  Cook  was  cut  up  to  be  divided  among  the 
chiefs,  grows  a  fine  white  flowering  plant  of  a  low  shrubby  nature 
not  met  with  before  in  any  other  part.55  It  belongs  to  the  tribe 
Diadelpha  and  is  generally  found  only  on  the  lava  near  to  the 
sea  coast,  with  scarcely  any  other  vegetation  near  it.  It  had 
plenty  of  seeds  which  I  gathered  and  am  in  hopes  that  it  will  grow 
in  England. 

July  15.  Owing  to  the  uncertainty  as  to  our  starting,  I  could 
only  pick  up  the  few  plants  growing  on  the  barren  fragments  of 

«2Kaawaloa  from  Kealakekua. 

53This  spot  is  known  to  Hawaiians  as  "Kapuhiolono,"  "the  burn- 
ing of  Lono,"  i.e.,  Captain  Cook. 

"Kaawaloa,  or  as  it  is  generally  pronounced  Ka-ava-loa.  There  is 
a  distinct  "V"  sound  in  some  Hawaiian  words,  such  as  "Ewa,"  pro- 
nounced "Eva."  Andrews  in  compiling  his  dictionary  of  the  Hawaiian 
language,  saw  fit  to  ignore  the  "V"  sound,  as  he  has  also  that  of  "T," 
which  is  still  to  be  heard  on  the  island  of  Kauai  or  Tauai. 

"Here  is  possibly  meant  Puapilo  (Capparis  sandwichiana  B.C.). 


71 

olack  lava  near  the  sea  shore  and  for  several  miles  inland.  Beyond 
the  fringe  of  bare  lava,  the  ground  gradually  rises  to  the  woody 
mountains  that  appear  covered  with  cultivated  patches  of  sweet 
potatoes,  taro,  breadfruit  and  banana  trees. 

The  whole  coast  on  this  side  of  the  island  has  a  horrid  and 
dreary  appearance.  The  ground  is  everywhere  covered  with  cin- 
ders and  streaks  and  hollow  parts  which  mark  the  course  of  lava 
from  Mouna  Roa.  The  natives  have  shown  great  industry  in 
clearing  away  the  top  lava  to  the  depth  of  4  feet  or  so  in  order  to 
get  to  the  more  fertile  soil  underneath,  which  is  composed  of  rich 
ashes  and  a  light  mould.  On  Owhyee,  the  taro  is  little  cultivated 
in  ponds  of  water  as  at  Woahoo  and  Mowee,  and  is  consequently 
of  much  smaller  growth  but  dry  and  farinaceous.  The  sea  here, 
like  at  other  parts  of  the  islands  we  touched  at,  abounds  with  a 
variety  of  excellent  fish  of  many  colours.  What  little  water  is  met 
with  is  generally  brackish. 

COOK'S  OBSERVATORY 

We  saw  at  Karakaakua  the  large  heap  of  stones  where  Capt. 
Cook  had  his  observatory,  which  was  formerly  a  morai  and  reli- 
gious places  for  human  sacrifices.56  We  also  noticed  near  the  same 
place  three  coconut  trees  with  cannon  shot  holes  through  them 
from  the  firing  upon  the  natives  which  took  place  when  Capt. 
Cook  was  killed.  In  the  gardens  of  the  native  huts  grow  a  few 
tobacco  plants  and  banana  trees  for  immediate  use.  We  saw  a 
dog  being  cooked  for  one  of  the  chiefs,  who  consider  them  better 
eating  than  any  other  animal. 

VISITS  THE  PUUHONIJA  AT  HONAUNAU  AND 
HALE  O  KEAWE 

July  16.  Went  to  see  the  morai57  on  the  other  side  of  the 
island.  On  our  way  met  the  old  priest  in  his  canoe  coming  on 
board.  He  alone  is  entrusted  to  enter  the  morai,  and  we  ac- 
cordingly took  him  back  with  us.  We  found  the  morai  was  on  the 

56Hikiau  heiau  or  temple. 

57By  moral  is  meant  the  Hale  o  Keawe.  Although  Macrae  does 
not  mention  the  large  Puuhonua  or  City  of  Refuge,  he  must  have  vis- 
ited it  as  it  immediately  adjoins  the  ground  where  the  Hale  o  Keawe 
stood.  For  particulars  about  the  Hale  o  Keawe,  see  article  by  Prof. 
W.  D.  Alexander  in  Vol.  3  of  the  Polynesian  Society  Journal.  Dampier, 
the  Blonde's  artist,  made  a  sketch  of  this  building,  which  has  often 
been  republished. 


72 

east  point  of  a  small  bay  surrounded  by  huts  standing  under  a 
thinly  scattered  grove  of  coconut  trees,  but  with  no  signs  of  culti- 
vation about.  As  we  were  about  to  enter  the  morai  the  old 
priest,  who  had  on  a  straw  hat  and  cotton  shirt,  took  both  of  them 
off,  and  only  left  his  maro  on.  On  entering  we  only  found  an 
empty  filthy  hut  with  quantities  of  human  bones  in  heaps  under 
mats  at  each  end  of  the  hut,  many  of  the  bones  not  yet  dry  and 
disgusting  to  the  sight.  In  the  middle  were  several  effigies  of 
the  deceased  chiefs,  tied  to  a  bundle  of  tap  a  cloth  containing  the 
bones  of  each  person  whom  the  effigies  represented.  Most  of 
the  effigies  were  made  of  wood,  but  the  one  representing  the  late 
Tamahamaah  was  substituted  by  a  mask  of  European  manufac- 
ture and  was  more  finely  dressed  than  the  others.  The  party  with 
Lord  Byron  that  had  visited  here  the  day  before,  had  taken  away 
any  memorials  of  the  morai  that  could  be  taken,  so  we  asked  the 
old  priest  to  be  allowed  to  take  some  of  the  ancient  weather  beaten 
carved  figures  outside. 

The  morai  is  a  small  thatched  hut  fenced  round  with  sticks 
to  the  height  of  6  feet,  kept  together  by  two  rows  of  bars.  Fixed 
in  the  lava  ground  at  the  entrance  front  stand  upright  several 
various  sized  wooden  rudely  carved  hideous  figures,  in  representa- 
tion of  their  former  gods.  These  they  now  set  but  little  value 
upon,  and  are  rarely  met  with  in  the  huts  of  the  natives. 

We  travelled  home  by  land  along  the  sea  coast,  over  uneven 
masses  of  lava,  and  meeting  with  only  a  few  plants  such  as  tufts 
of  low-growing  euphorbias,  convolvuluses,  sidas,  but  mostly  dia- 
delphas  plant  seen  common  at  the  place  where  the  chiefs  shared 
between  them  the  body  of  Capt.  Cook.  There  was  also  a  species 
of  hibiscus,  with  yellow  flowers,  much  used  here  by  the  natives  to 
dye  their  tapa  cloths  yellow.  On  the  way  home,  we  passed  a 
number  of  heaps  of  lava  raised  over  the  dead  slain  in  one  of 
Tamahamaah's  battles  for  the  conquest  of  the  island.  This  was 
between  the  morai  and  Karakaakua. 

On  board  we  found  the  old  priest  awaiting  us  for  some  pre- 
sents in  return  for  the  old  images  he  had  allowed  us  to  take  from 
outside  the  morai.  We  gave  him  several  articles  of  clothing  with 
which  he  was  more  pleased  than  if  we  had  given  him  money. 


73 

VISITS  KAPUHIOLONO  AND  ERECTS  MONUMENT  TO 
.   CAPTAIN  COOK'S  MEMORY 

July  17.  Sunday.  Fine.  Went  to  see  the  monument  erected 
yesterday  to  the  memory  of  Capt.  Cook  by  his  Lordship  (Byron) 
on  the  top  of  the  black  lava  hill  above  Karona,  where  it  is  said 
his  body  was  divided  amongst  the  chiefs.  This  monument  is 
simply  a  capstan  bar  from  the  ship,  painted  white  and  fixed  on 
a  heap  of  lava  that  had  formerly  been  raised  by  the  natives  when 
they  made  the  square  wall  round  this  spot,  which  they  now  for 
years  look  upon  as  consecrated  ground. 

This  bar  stands  about  sixteen  feet  high,  with  a  small  copper 
plate  at  the4  top,  having  the  following  inscription  upon  it: 
In  memory  of  Captain  James  Cook,  R.N., 
who  discovered  these  islands 
in  the  year  of  Our  Lord  1778 

This  humble  monument  is  erected  by  his  fellow  countrymen 
in  the  year  of  Our  Lord  i£28  IS  15 

THE  BLONDE  SAILS  FOR  TAHITI 

July  18.  At  12.10  a.m.  weighed  anchor  and  made  sail  with 
light  breezes  for  Otaliite,  leaving  these  interesting  islands  after  a 
short  stay  of  little  more  than  two  months.  With  the  exception 
of  a  few  chiefs  of  high  rank,  who  have  adopted  a  little  of  the 
European  style  of  costume,  the  natives  still  retain  their  manners 
and  customs  nearly  the  same  as  related  by  the  unfortunate  Cook 
who  fell  a  sacrifice  to  their  barbarity.  The  dagger  which  is  said 
to  have  committed  the  fatal  deed,  I  am  now  informed,  is  in  the 
possession  of  a  gentleman  on  board,  who  is  also  informed  of  every 
particular  circumstance  relating  to  the  misunderstanding  which 
took  place  between  the  parties  at  the  time.  But  I  am  inclined 
to  doubt  if  they  had  such  a  thing  as  a  dagger  at  that  period,  or 
why  it  should  be  held  secret  from  Vancouver  and  other  navigators 
who  wore  equally  anxious  to  gain  all  information  respecting  the 
occurrence  and  with  what  weapon  the  fatal  deed  was  committed. 
The  small  English  drum  presented  by  Cook  to  the  King  is  now 
in  his  Lordship's  possession,  with  some  other  things  which  have 
been  in  the  morai  for  ninny  years  and  wore  given  to  Lord  Byron 
when  ho  visited  the  morai  a  few  days  ago. 

(lloro  follows  in   Macrae's  manuscript  a  list  of  2f>  fruits  or 


74 

plants,  indigenous  or  introduced  from  abroad,  which  is  hardly 
worth  reproducing.  He  states  that  halla  (hala)  pineapple  is  "not 
plentiful."  What  would  Macrae  say  if  he  returned  to  the  islands 
in  1922?  He  would  find  square  miles  of  pineapples.) 

July  19-23.     Fine  fresh  breezes  from  E.N.E. 

July  27.     Fine.       Breezes    E.  by  S.       Crossed  the  Equator. 

DISCOVERY  OF  MAIDEN  ISLAND 

July  30.  Sighted  land,  at  12  noon.  Lowered  two  boats  and 
landed  through  the  surf  on  a  fine  sandy  coral  beach  covered  with 
shells,  most  of  which  \vere  the  cockle  kind  of  very  large  size 
weighing  over  15  Ibs.  We  separated  to  explore  the  island,  and 
found  it  low  and  flat,  covered  with  vegetation  of  no  great  variety, 
being  mostly  sidas  and  a  few  bushes  of  tournefortia.  The  island 
was  covered  with  birdu,  remarkably  tame  and  easily  taken  in  our 
hands. 

We  saw  remains  of  huts  built  of  coral  slabs  without  any 
timber,  and  we  gathered  therefrom  that  the  island  had  been  in- 
habited, probably  by  shipwrecked  people  and  never  discovered.  At 
one  of  these  huts,  the  surveyor  left  a  sealed  bottle  which  he  had 
brought  for  the  purpose,  containing  some  written  inscription, 
what,  I  know  not.  I  saw  no  signs  of  cultivation.  There  was  a 
little  fresh  water  in  holes  among  the  coral  rocks,  a  good  distance 
from  the  sea.  Just  when  our  stay  was  becoming  most  interesting, 
the  recall  gun  from  the  ship  was  fired,  so  we  could  not  find  out 
any  more  about  the  island.  We  thought  that  we  might  perhaps 
find  something  concerning  the  unfortunate  Mr.  de  la  Perouse  and 
his  crew,  about  whom  the  world  still  remains  doubtful  as  to  what 
part  of  these  seas  they  were  lost. 

This  little  island,  which  is  a  discovery  of  the  Blonde,  and 
since  named  Maiden  Island,  in  honour  of  our  surveyor,  is  about 
12  miles  in  circumference1,  is  very  low  and  scarcely  seen  15  miles 
distant  out  at  sea.  It  abounds  with  sea  birds,  but  without  quad- 
rupeds except  a  small  brown  shiny  kind  of  short-tailed  rat,  very 
wild,  that  ran  into  their  holes  at  our  approach. 

HERE  ENDS  JAMES  MACRAE'S  DIARY 


7.5 


The  following  is  a  condensed  log  of  H.M.S.  Blonde  after  leav- 
ing Maiden  Island : 
1825— Aug.      1— Passed  Starbuck  Island. 

8 — Reached  and  landed  at  Mauke,  one  of  the  Cook 

group. 
Sept.     4 — Passed  Juan  Fernandez. 

6 — Reached  Valparaiso. 
29 — Anchored  at  Talcahuaria  (Concepcion). 
Oct.     12 — Sailed  from  Concepcion  and  reached  Valparaiso 

13th. 
Dec.      5 — At    Coquimbo. 

29— Doubled  Cape  Horn. 
1826 — Jan.     23 — Arrived  at  St.  Helena  and  stayed    there    until 

28th  January. 

Mar.  7 — Rescued  the  survivors  of  the  wrecked  ship 
Frances  Mary,  bound  from  2\"ew  Bruns- 
wick for  Liverpool. 

15 — Anchored  at  Spithead  after  an  absence  of  seven- 
teen months  and  fifteen  davs. 


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